SKIN CARE 57 n Placebo n 3% AnnonaSense CLR
60 50 40 30 20 10 0
t = 1 min t = 5 min t = 24 hrs
70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Placebo
3% AnnonaSense CLR
Figure 5: Assessment of skin discomfort.
TRPV1 and the determination of changes of capsaicin-induced cellular processes through this pathway was the aim of this study. Primary human keratinocytes were co- cultivated with sensory neurons and incubated with Cherimoya at 0.1% and with capsazepine (10 μM), respectively, as an antagonist for TRPV1 for 24 hours. Subsequently capsaicin (10 μM) was applied for 60 minutes. Expression of TRPV-1 induced IL-1β, IL-8 and CGRP was determined.
Results
Reduction of Interleukin-1β (IL-1β), Interleukin-8 (IL-8) and CGRP by positive control (capsazepine) was set at 100%. Expression of all three inflammatory mediators induced by Cherimoya was close to 80% of what was achieved with the positive control (Fig 2). This clearly illustrates the potency of Cherimoya to reduce the activity of TRPV1 through its action on CB2.
Reduction of TRPV1-induced inflammation, keratinocytes
A similar experiment was performed only using primary human keratinocytes, with IL- 8 as the marker. Primary human keratinocytes were cultivated with Cherimoya for 24 hours, after which capsaicin (0.1 μM) was applied. IL-8 expression was measured at baseline and after treatment with capsaicin, with or without pre-incubation with Cherimoya.
Results IL-8 production at baseline (untreated) was set at 100%. Treatment with capsaicin led to a 62.5% increase of the production of IL-8. Pre-incubation with Cherimoya, however, led to a clear decrease of IL-8 production, even lower than at baseline and even for the lowest concentration of Cherimoya used (Fig 3).
Efficacy studies In vivo assays
September 2019
Figure 6: Assessment of skin appearance.
In vitro studies showed the strong potency of Cherimoya in balancing two biological systems which stand high in the hierarchy of disturbing vs. maintaining a healthy immunological barrier. From this it can be concluded that Cherimoya should promote skin health and wellbeing. Healthy skin, having the ability to stay in homeostasis, is not sensitive, not overly reactive. An objective evaluation of the effect of Cherimoya on the sensitivity/reactivity of skin is therefore one of the prerequisites for providing proof of Cherimoya providing better skin health and wellbeing. As mentioned in the introduction of this article, a growing number of people suffer from skin ailments. Approximately 50% of people perceive their skin to be sensitive. At some point, virtually everybody suffers from skin irritations, redness and itch. In order to provide sufficient proof for Cherimoya to work effectively in daily life, the in vivo studies needed to be performed on volunteers who were representative of the general public, of people who want their skin to be healthier. For the subsequent in vivo studies more than 40 volunteers were included who reported their skin to be sensitive and dry. Twelve volunteers had atopic dermatitis, eight had type IV allergy, one had psoriasis, and one had diabetes type II. As the general consumer searching for better skin health and wellbeing, the volunteers showed a regular feeling of skin discomfort (e.g., itch). Both women and men were included, and the age range of the volunteers was 18–70 years.
Assessment of skin sensitivity One application of test product on 17 (for 250 Hz) and 18 (for 5 Hz) volunteers (including 5 with atopic dermatitis, 3 with type IV allergy, 6 with sensitive skin, 1 with diabetes type II). Skin sensitivity was determined by measuring current perception threshold (CPT) with Neurometer®
CPT/C (Neurotron Inc.,
Baltimore, USA) at 250 Hz and 5 Hz before and 30 minutes after application of the test product. Baseline at t=0 is set at 0%. Values are based on averages of individual results of all volunteers.
Results
The 250 Hz experiment showed that the formulation with Cherimoya outperformed the corresponding placebo formulation by more than 35%. The 5 Hz experiment showed even clearer results: the formulation with Cherimoya performed more than 60% better than the placebo formulation (Fig 4). These results show that Cherimoya clearly makes skin less sensitive.
Skin discomfort
One application of test product after occurrence of itch. 22 volunteers tested formulation with Cherimoya, 20 tested placebo formulation. Itching was scored at t=0, 1 min, 5 min and 24 hrs. Baseline at t=0 is set at 0%. The volunteers were not aware of the nature of the product which they applied on their skin.
Results
Itch is a common phenomenon for the consumer. Instant, but especially long- lasting relief of itch is an important trait for a cosmetic formulation aimed at sustainably increasing the consumer’s health and wellbeing. As itch is a phenomenon which is highly subjective, the placebo effect needs to be taken extremely seriously. Placebo formulation can relieve up to 40% of perceived itch without having any biological effect whatsoever. It is, therefore, important to prove with Cherimoya that it can lead to a relief of itch which is considerably greater than 40%. In this study this was clearly proven. Where the effects of the formulation containing Cherimoya were better than corresponding placebo after 1 and 5 minutes after applying the products, the effect after 24 hours was clearly larger
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Reduction of itching (%)
Reduction of redness (%)
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