LIFESTYLE COSMETICS 75 n Control n DAWNERGYTM 150 200 Peptide
125 150 100 100 75
50 7:30 a.m. 11:30 a.m.
50 7:30 a.m. 11:30 a.m. Figure 5: Hydration levels and percentage of ceramides in synchronised skin models at various times of the day (*p<0.05 and ****p<0.0001 vs control 7:30 a.m.). n Control n DAWNERGYTM 6 6 Peptide
6
6
5
5
5
5
4 Early morning Late morning
4 Early morning Late morning Figure 6: Natural evolution of skin microcirculation (left) and eyebags (right) in the early morning and after 4 hours (**p<0.01; ***p<0.001 vs early morning).
II were separately measured by using enzyme activity assays. The active ingredient inhibited mitochondrial complex I and stimulates mitochondrial complex II activity, both effects linked to anti-ageing effects.
Skin functions in the morning Changes in skin moisture and epidermal barrier lipids were studied in synchronised in vitro skin models. The human 3D skin models were subjected to a protocol of day-night synchronisation by temperature cycles and treated with 0.5 mg/mL Nonapeptide-1 for 48 hours. Hydration, by means of capacitance, and for ceramide levels, by means of ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry, (UHPLC-MS) were analysed at different time points (7:30 a.m. and 11:30 a.m.). Treatment with the active ingredient led
to an increase in hydration by 10% and ceramides by 47.6%, resembling the normal levels in the late morning.
Improving morning facial appearance in active women
Skin characteristics related to biological rhythms and associated to the appearance
September 2019
of a tired complexion were analysed under normal conditions and after using a cream with Nonapeptide-1. Evaluation of the cutaneous blood flow was assessed on the cheek by image acquisition with a high- resolution camera and image analysis, whereas eyebag volume was assessed by real 3D microtopography. As a pre-evaluation, the differences in skin conditions between the early morning and the late morning were measured in 60 Caucasian female volunteers between 31-47 years old. Measurements were performed early in the morning (maximum 1 hour after waking up) and 4 hours later, without applying any product. In normal conditions, microcirculation
increased by 2.1% while eyebags decreased by 9.7% from early morning to 4 hours later. These results confirm the skin is in not in its best condition in the first hours of the day.
Then, it was tested whether these skin functions could be activated earlier by the active ingredient in vivo, and what would happen in subjects that have gone out and had very little sleep at night. Nine volunteers applied, to the face, a cream containing the active ingredient once a
day, in the morning, and a placebo cream at night. Nine volunteers applied a placebo cream both in the morning and at night. After 7 days, all volunteers were invited to have dinner and a party and slept for only 4 hours. Measurements were performed early the next morning. With the active cream microcirculation
increased by 7.0%, while it decreased by 10.7% with the placebo cream (Fig 7). The volume of bags under the eyes after a night of insufficient sleep decreased by 16.9% compared to the same time before treatment, while placebo treatment decreased it by 4.0%.
Awakening skin luminosity and youthfulness
41 Caucasian female volunteers aged 31-46 years old were split in two groups. One group applied a cream with active ingredient once a day, in the morning, and a placebo cream at night. A second group applied a placebo cream in the morning and at night.
After 28 days, skin luminosity (L*)
was determined by analysis of macrophotographs of the face, and the Luminosity software was used to visualise the
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Microcirculation (A.U.)
Relative hydration (%)
Cermide content (%) Eyebags volume (mm3 )
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