58 SKIN CARE
The product reduces the frequency of itching
The application of the product has improved my wellbeing
80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
The product reduces the intensity of itching longlastingly
I am no longer distracted by itching, my quality of life has improved
Figure 7: Perception of skin health and wellbeing.
than that of placebo. As could be expected, the placebo formulation was able to reduce itch by almost 37%. The same formulation additionally containing Cherimoya outperformed the placebo formulation by almost 18%, showing an overall reduction of itch by almost 55% (Fig 5).
Skin appearance
In a double-blind test, 22 volunteers tested a formulation with Cherimoya and 20 tested a placebo formulation. Redness was scored at t=0 and after 17 days of twice daily application of test products. Baseline at t=0 is set at 0%.
Results
An unhealthy appearance of skin can have important negative consequences for a person’s wellbeing, i.e. quality of life. Reduction of skin redness in relation to skin health is therefore an important parameter to consider. In this study, 17 days of application of the test substance showed that the formulation with Cherimoya improved skin appearance by reducing redness due to scratching itchy skin. Where the placebo formulation reduced skin redness by 25%, the corresponding formulation containing Cherimoya clearly outperformed the placebo formulation, by reducing redness by more than 36% (Fig 6).
Perception of skin health and wellbeing Volunteers (n=22) who applied Cherimoya (3% in an aqueous gel) were given a questionnaire after 17 days of twice daily application.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC Results
In this last study consumers were questioned on whether a simple aqueous gel, showing minimum sensory and biological properties, containing 3% Cherimoya led to improvement of skin health and wellbeing. After 17 days of daily use of the product the consumers found that both the intensity and the frequency of itching were reduced by almost 73%. A total of 54.5% of the users confirmed that the feeling of tension in their skin – a phenomenon often encountered by people with dry and unhealthy skin – was perceivably reduced. The same number of users reported that the quality of their life was improved, and almost 64% of test persons stated that using this product had improved their wellbeing after only 17 days (Fig 7).
Conclusion Physiologically, achieving skin health and wellbeing demands a potent approach. An imbalance in physiological processes needs to be obtained and the resulting balance needs to be safeguarded. For the consumer, skin health and wellbeing, is largely a subjective matter, though. Proving a positive effect on skin health and wellbeing therefore requires relevant in vitro- and in vivo-approaches showing both physiological effects and benefits which are perceivable by the consumer. This has to be put in the context of the fact that the consumer buys cosmetic products mainly to improve skin health and wellbeing.
With the studies shown in this article, it was shown that Cherimoya has relevant activity. It balances the ECS/EVS system in our skin through its potent action on CB2. CB2, i.e. Cannabinoid Receptor Type-2 is a receptor which interacts with endocannabinoids, produced in our body. The plant kingdom is a rich source of phytocannabinoids. Cannabidiol (CBD) is one such example of a phytocannabinoid which enjoys much attention in the cosmetic industry at the moment. CBD is a constituent of Cannabis sativa, well-known for its high concentration in psychoactive molecules. In relation to this, the regulatory situation concerning CBD is unclear for many parts of the world, where, in many countries, the use of CBD in cosmetic products seems to meet regulatory challenges. In our studies it was clearly shown that the fruit of Annona cherimola, the raw material which was used to obtain Cherimoya, can potently interact with our skin’s endocannabinoid system. Cherimoya is shown to be both effective and safe, without regulatory challenges. Cherimoya strongly reduces skin sensitivity and itch. Both are important parameters in achieving skin health. Another such parameter is skin appearance. Cherimoya was shown to improve this parameter as well. In a last study it was clearly shown that the activity of Cherimoya was perceived by consumers as well. Frequency and intensity of itch was reduced, skin feel improved, and quality of life and wellbeing were enhanced as well.
PC September 2019
The feeling of skin tension is reduced
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