LIFESTYLE COSMETICS 73
Ready to face the day with a skin full of vitality?
n Alicia Gimenez, Olga Laporta, Elena Cañadas, Marine Vincendet, Raquel Delgado – Lipotec Active Ingredients, Spain
Nowadays, consumers understand that leading a too active lifestyle can take a toll on their skin. They are familiar with having a dull complexion, with dryness and puffiness in some areas and realise that, in the long term, little rest leads to an accelerated appearance of ageing signs. In normal conditions, the skin needs some time to activate its diurnal functions and its natural rhythms cannot adapt to the accelerated pace of today’s society, which does not allow enough restorative sleep.
Skin beauty and health, influenced by lifestyle choices Women are more and more empowered and choose to achieve their goals and make the most of life, without missing any opportunity. This usually involves leading a busy lifestyle in a hyperconnected world, where the line between work and personal time is blurred and people are active around the clock. The moment for switching off and going to sleep never seems to arrive and people keep active during the night, working from home, watching TV or using digital devices, taking care of children or attending social events for instance. The next morning, when they wake up,
most present puffiness, baggy eyes and a dull tone in the skin. Several studies have proven a link between poor sleep and a less
180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Control 7:30 a.m. * *
attractive and healthy appearance. Nevertheless, even after sleeping well, it is common to present a worse complexion in the early morning. This phenomenon can be explained by the existence of biological rhythms.
The circadian rhythm of skin cells Circadian rhythms are biological cycles that repeat every 24 hours and have been identified in various skin parameters. Because of those, the skin tends to present lower barrier function, water content and cutaneous microcirculation in the early morning compared to noon, explaining the perception of a dull and less vital skin, showing fatigue signs. The internal machinery that regulates
circadian rhythms in each skin cell is formed by a set of clock genes whose expression pattern fluctuates throughout the day: Clock, Bmal, Per and Cry. With age, the expression of such clock genes decreases, and circadian rhythms become impaired. The circadian clock is also regulated by epigenetic mechanisms (i.e. independently of the DNA sequence), occurring through JARID1a. This protein can chemically modify histones wrapping the DNA and can enhance the expression of clock genes such as Per in the early morning, to activate diurnal processes in the cell.1
250 200 150 100 50 0 Control 11:30 a.m. DawnergyTM peptide 7:30 a.m.
Control 7:30 a.m.
Control 11:30 a.m.
Figure 1: Levels of JARID1a protein (left) and clock gene Per3 (right) (*p<0.05, **p<0.01 and ****p<0.0001 vs control 7:30 a.m.). September 2019 PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC DawnergyTM peptide 7:30 a.m. **** **
Vitality, emerging from mitochondria
JARID1a has been also shown to regulate genes related to mitochondrial structure and function. As a result, it can regulate the mitochondrial energising activity. Mitochondria are the organelles responsible for producing ATP, the cell’s main energy source. This cellular process takes place in the respiratory chain, a series of five large protein complexes (named complex I to complex V) present in the inner mitochondrial membrane. These complexes transfer electrons to create an electrical gradient that is used for ATP production.
Mitochondria decline in function with
time, reducing bioenergetic capacity and contributing to ageing. Some of these effects are attributable to the mitochondrial complexes of the respiratory chain. Complex II activity decreases with age, contributing to a progressive mitochondrial dysfunction and lower energy production.2
On the contrary,
partial inhibition of complex I activity could extend lifespan. Metformin is an inhibitor of mitochondrial complex I activity that has been postulated to slow the ageing process and is under evaluation for its anti-ageing activity in humans.3,4
JARID1a protein level (%)
Per3 relative gene expression (%)
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