SKIN CARE 55
The holy grail in skin care: skin health and wellbeing
n Harald van der Hoeven, Dr Heiko Prade - Chemisches Laboratorium Dr Kurt Richter (CLR) GmbH, Germany
More than 70% of consumers say that they use cosmetic products to improve their quality of life. 80% use cosmetics to improve self-esteem. 68% think that their use of cosmetics is important of how they are perceived by others. It is clear what consumers expect from the cosmetic industry. They want us to develop products which fit these primary needs. 86% of consumers expect tangible effects. This means that they want their cosmetic products to work for them. Apart from the above, the consumer is
increasingly health-minded. ‘Health is the new wealth’. Consumers are aware of the link between appearance, lifestyle factors and health. This goes for skin health as well. Compared to the past, consumers have a more pro-active attitude towards care of their skin. They find skin health much more important than trying to erase wrinkles or age spots. They understand that maintaining healthy skin will help in maintaining young looking skin. Skin protection is a key factor for them. On top of that, healthy skin is considered to be attractive skin. Healthy skin looks good and feels good. Healthy skin is in balance. Healthy skin is strongly associated with overall wellbeing. Inversely, when skin is not healthy, overall wellbeing is strongly impaired.
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Positive Control 0.005% Figure 1: Agonistic influence on CB2. September 2019 0.05% AnnonaSense CLR Figure 2: Reduction of mediator release. PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
The number of people suffering from skin diseases is growing tremendously. The incidence of atopic dermatitis has doubled over the last 3 decades. A significant percentage of the population suffers from psoriasis. Acne is a common problem, especially for adolescents, but adult acne is a growing phenomenon as well. Also systemic diseases, like diabetes type 2, a vastly growing problem, can have strong implications for skin. Itch is a common problem for many consumers. In addition to the increased prevalence of skin-related diseases, the average consumer has a negative perception about her or his skin. When asked to describe their skin, in virtually all cases people describe it as problematic, e.g. dry, oily, sensitive etc. In the light of the above, it is unsurprising to see strong growth in ‘dermocosmetic brands’ and so-called ‘Dr- brands’. Consumers trust these brands to provide them with cosmetic products which fit their needs, to solve their problems and to improve their health, wellbeing and quality of life. They have high expectations, though. Betraying their trust will lead to them not continuing to buy the product. It is therefore of utmost importance that the product fulfils their needs. Key words are: skin health and wellbeing.
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Positive Control IL-1ß IL-8 CGRP
Skin health and wellbeing? What is skin health? The short answer is: the skin’s ability to function properly despite disturbing influences from both outside (e.g. UV, microbes etc.) and inside (e.g. fluctuating hormonal status). In other words, the stronger our physiological ability to stay in homeostasis is, the healthier we are. Homeostasis is a favourable balance in our physiological processes. Safeguarding this balance is an important focus for obtaining and, especially, maintaining health. An unhealthy balance can be solved by using ‘problem solvers’. A cosmetic active ingredient which is designed to soothe the skin will provide a solution for irritated and inflamed skin, for instance. With such an ingredient health is obtained, but will health also be maintained? This is a much more difficult task. The balance in the physiological processes that are important in maintaining skin health must be the focus. The challenge lies in understanding these physiological processes, their mechanisms and their interactions. Literature research will soon lead to the conclusion that the physiological processes involved here are immensely complex. Where to begin? Which processes need to be influenced? All of them? This is obviously impossible. To create order in what looks to be a chaos (which is
CB2 agonistic activity (%)
Reduction of mediator release (%)
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