44 SKIN MICROBIOME
of the skin microbiota dive 4 to 6 layers deep into the horny layer. In case their home is annihilated, they reappear from under the surface.7 The protective strategy of the skin
microbiota is not limited to the skin surface. It goes beyond our imagination, as each hour 40 million members of the skin microbiota are released from the skin surface and form an invisible antimicrobial shield around our body. This shield protects us from invaders even before they can reach the actual skin surface.7 The skin microbiota members are not only transforming the food provided by the skin into defence peptides or acids. The microorganisms go beyond all that. All members of the Staphylococcus genus produce SOD (Superoxide Dismutase).8 SOD is a first line antioxidant.9
second line antioxidant that can merely capture and reduce free radicals. SOD surpasses all that, as it can prevent the formation of free radicals. The skin microbiota is also producing hydrating glycerine and proteins. They offer also inflammation suppression and regulate our skin immunity.10,11
One strain of
Staphylococcus epidermidis MO34 can produce hydroxyaminopurine, which is a powerful anti-cancer molecule. It will not only prevent or destroy cancer, but it is also harmless to skin cells.12
This beneficial and powerful skin
microbiota is built on one fundament and one fundament only: food. Without food the whole construction collapses. Food is so important that it is distributed through an ingenious food web.13
Table 1: Factors which influence the skin microbiota.
Change in diet Diabetic Pollution UV
Chemicals Hormones
Use of antibiotics Disinfectants Cosmetics
Vitamin E is a
Staphylococcus produces lactates, which can be fermented by Cutibacteria. The Cutibacteria on their turn produce propionates. These proprionates are food for Microcococus. The food is endlessly transformed and shared. In case when one member of the community would fail to produce a by-product, the rest of the community can still feed itself through other channels.
The treat: preservatives and surfactants
The members of
the skin microbiota transform food into by- products that can be fermented by another member (see Fig 1). For example, the
100
The food supply towards the skin microbiota can be disturbed or altered by factors summarised in Table 1. The most interesting factor changing the food supply for the skin microbiota is the use of cosmetics. When applying a product, we apply it directly into the skin microbiota. The microorganisms consider it as food. However, it is not their standard diet of corneocytes, sweat and lipids. The cosmetic ingredients that are the prime suspects to have a negative impact on the skin microbiota food web and consequently on the skin’s protection are preservatives and surfactants. They are
suspected to cause disturbance, because of their chemical nature.
Inulin: a bio selective support Microorganisms, just like any other living creatures die or are weakened when they face hostile conditions. However, microorganisms when they face hostile conditions and they have access to powerful food, they survive. Microorganisms own 15 million genes, which makes them extremely resourceful. However, without food they cannot use these genes. In the early days of food probiotics, it was clear that they have difficulties surviving in stomach acid. The same probiotics combined with a prebiotic inulin survived the acidity of the stomach. Inulin is a natural polysaccharide from glucose and fructose derived from chicory roots or Agave pinas. Inulin is a power food for most probiotics. It might be interesting to investigate if inulin has a similar effect on the skin microbiota when facing a dangerous situation.
The immediate effect of preservatives on the skin microbiota community To test the damaging effect of preservatives on the skin microbiota and the possible supporting effect of a special molecular weight Inulin of 2kDa derived from chicory and agave the following test was performed (preBiulin AGA). A cream containing a high amount of
preservatives (phenoxyethanol, parabens and formaldehyde releaser) was applied once on the forearm (Test cream). These results were compared to a cream containing the same amount of preservatives enriched with 2% 2kDa-Inulin
Table 2: The ingredients of the Test Cream vs AGA Cream (enriched with Inulin).
Ingredients Aqua
80
Xanthan Gum Glycerin
60
Glyceryl Stearate PEG-100 Stearate
40
Test cream qs
0.2
2.5 2.5
15
AGA cream qs
0.2 33
2.5 2.5
20 0 T=0 T=1h Figure 2: Skin microbiota population of Placebo cream vs AGA cream. PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Cetearyl Alcohol 22 Ethylhexyl Stearate Propylene Glycol Phenoxyethanol DMDM Hydantoin Diazolidinyl Urea Methylparaben Propylparaben
0.84 0.5
0.15 0.45 0.1
0.03 preBiulin AGA (Inulin 2kDa) 02 September 2019 15
0.84 0.5
0.15 0.45 0.1
0.03
Population of microorganisms (%)
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