SKIN PROTECTION 61
Carrot extract for blue light protection and vivid skin
n Bernd Walzel, Beatrix Senti, Tamina Shah, Ulrike Bätz, Stefan Bänziger – Lipoid Kosmetik, Switzerland
Blue light protection has reached the cosmetic market. Topical application of blue light absorbers protect skin from the direct and indirect effects of blue light radiation. A class of natural blue light absorbers are carotenoids. They effectively capture blue light and reduce light- induced oxidative stress. Interestingly, carotenoids do also change skin colour - a key factor for a healthy and attractive appearance of skin. In a recent, scientific study1,2
researchers concluded that skin
attractiveness correlates with carotenoid levels in skin.
Using the unique properties of
carotenoids, Lipoid Kosmetik presents a new cosmetic active that combines both concepts: blue light protection and skin colour improvement.
Carotenoids – blue light absorbers invented by nature Carotenoids are fascinating molecules: they specifically filter blue light (hence their orange colour) and due to their molecular structure, they effectively neutralise radicals, reducing light induced oxidative stress. Carotenoids are highly abundant in
nature - in fact, there is no green plant without them. In plants, carotenoids are light-harvesting antenna molecules that absorb visible light (VIS) and transfer its energy to the center of photosynthesis. Their most important function, however, is to protect the chlorophyll from triplet oxygen radicals that are generated in the process of photosynthesis under conditions of excess light. In human skin carotenoids perform similar functions: During exposure to sunlight, or to light from electronic devices, visible blue light generates oxidative stress. In skin, carotenoids filter a certain portion of the incident blue light and neutralise reactive oxygen species formed.
Carotenoids protect skin from blue light
All types of light can damage skin - but each by a different mechanism. For
September 2019 Abstract
Blue light-induced skin damage originates from two sources: natural blue light, which is part of sunlight, and artificial blue light, which comes from electronic devices. Topical applications that protect from blue light have reached the cosmetic market. But efficient blue light absorbers are rare. Nature’s answer to blue light are carotenoids, which shield blue light and protect against blue-light induced oxidative stress in plants. Lipoid Kosmetik’s active ingredient Carotolino is designed to supply carotenoids to the skin, where they can naturally act as a defensive shield against blue light and reduce oxidative stress. Besides its photo- protective activity, topically applied carotenoids improve skin colour. Indeed, our in vivo study demonstrates that Carotolino creates a subtle colour optimisation, shifting pale and dull skin tones to a more lively and healthy appearance. Carotolino incorporates the best of carrots including stabilised carotenoids. This makes our botanical active a trendy ingredient that synergistically reduces blue light- induced skin damage while at the same time adding a vivid look.
Figure 1: Carotenoids are perfect blue light absorbers. Selective absorption of blue light, and very high extinction, results in blue light protection and brightly orange colours – e.g. as seen in autumn leaves or carrots.
example: UV radiation is directly absorbed by DNA causing DNA lesions. Such lesions may be mutagenic, cause photoageing, or lead to other health problems, such as skin cancer. Humans produce melanin to protect the skin against UV exposure.
By contrast, visible light radiation (VIS), especially blue light, acts through photosensitization. 3
Here, visible light is
absorbed by chromophores in the skin (e.g. melanin) that upon excitation generate reactive oxygen species. Reactive oxygen species, in turn, damage DNA and
other biomolecules, disturb the epidermal barrier, or induce inflammation. Sufficiently high doses of blue light cause extensive cell death.3 It is therefore a persistent
misconception that visible light is safe for skin. In fact, after sun exposure, about 50% of free radicals produced in human skin originate from visible and infrared light.4 Due to its shorter wavelength, particularly blue light generates radicals that accentuate the signs of premature skin ageing, including hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, loss of elasticity, or dryness.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
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