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14 IN-COSMETICS ASIA


the ECS and EVS is established. AnnonaSense CLR makes the skin less sensitive and more balanced, even itch could perceivably be reduced. Skin appearance becomes clearly better and a consumer study showed that perception of wellbeing and quality of life were improved. AnnonaSense CLR is obtained from Annona cherimola, common name Cherimoya, an edible fruit originating from South America. For production of AnnonaSense CLR, CLR


quickly into the skin while providing a non- tacky, smooth and silky skin-feel, therefore it is universally suitable for a luxury skin-feel without compromise on texture. There is no better area than Australia to discover the benefits of Sandalwood. Well known for its essential oil, Biocosmethic (Stand Q40) has decided to focus the research on the precious sustainable Sandalwood kernel oil with Ximethic, an active ingredient suitable for sensitive skin. Thanks to its high content in ximenynic acid, Ximethic soothes the skin and helps to reduce skin inflammation. Also on show, ArtOfWhite is Biocosmethic’s innovative natural skin lightening cosmetic ingredient inspired from traditional Chinese medicine. Acting at key different levels of pigmentation such as melanin synthesis, melanosomes maturation, migration and transfer then melanin degradation by stimulating autophagy, its potent efficacy ensures a safe and efficient skin lightening effect for transparent and sparkling skin. At in-cosmetics Asia CLR Berlin (stand N30) will present AnnonaSense CLR. Modern consumers are health-minded and efficacy-driven. To meet their needs, CLR Berlin developed AnnonaSense CLR, a highly effective and sustainable solution for increased skin health and wellbeing. It provides the skin with means to establish a sustainable homeostatic balance. The adaptogenic action of AnnonaSense CLR supports the endocannabinoid system (ECS) by activating the CB2 receptor. Inflammatory processes induced by the TRPV1 receptor, part of the skin’s endovanilloid system (EVS) are strongly ruled down and a stable balance between


new manufacturing, Cosphatec managed to use these existing, well-proven ingredients but avoid high concentration necessity, separation risks and high transportation or storage costs. Hence, Cosphaderm Sodium LAAS is a user- and eco-friendly antimicrobial system. At in-cosmetics Asia, Dow will be launching MaizeCare Style, a polymer derived from waxy corn starch. MaizeCare Style Polymer is the company’s first bio- based hair fixative for the personal care industry. Sourced from a renewable stock it is


use ‘upcycling’ techniques based on the left-over of the fruit after juice extraction, making it an exceptionally sustainable and eco-friendly product. Contipro (Stand D40) is searching for


new ingredients to update the portfolio of anti-ageing ingredients all over the world. This year Contipro decided to look to the deep sea for solutions to the problem of ageing skin. Their researchers found a natural protector of basal lamina. The deep sea bacteria Thalassospira can significantly inhibit the human enzyme calpain which causes degradation of the basal lamina. Moreover it can strongly increase the number of dermal papillae and reinforce the membrane firmness. As the skin is repaired from the deep, the effect can be seen on its surface. The team observed significant results on elasticity improvement and wrinkle reduction. Their raw material is produced biotechnologically which makes the product special in comparison to traditional extracts. Cosphatec’s (Stand Q90) new developments include Cosphaderm Sodium LAAS, an all-natural COSMOS- certified blend, strongly efficient and with various benefits. The natural alternative preservation system consists of the well-proven sodium levulinate and sodium anisate. Both are multifunctional ingredients with various benefits for cosmetic formulations, such as skin emollience and perfuming or masking effects. The most interesting advantages are the strong antimicrobial efficiency against bacteria, yeasts and moulds, as well as the blend’s high water-solubility and odour- and colourlessness. With only 1.0 to 1.4 % of Cosphaderm Sodium LAAS, formulators can replace listed and restricted preservatives in all kinds of products. With


PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC


considered 100% natural according to the ISO 16128 standard and supports natural claims in hair care products. MaizeCare Style Polymer is an easy to use powder that forms a high-performance film in aqueous dispersions. MaizeCare Style Polymer can be adapted to various product formats to enable brand owners develop highly performing styling products and to strengthen their equity on product benefits and natural positioning. In several comparative application tests the polymer demonstrated similar or superior performance versus synthetic hair fixatives such as Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) in terms of holding style, long lasting curl retention, and long lasting resistance to humidity. Beyond ultraviolet (UV) wavelength, considering the potentially harmful effects of Blue Light and Infrared (IR) radiation in skin damage, more and more sunscreen products are claiming these protections for consumer health. As Blue Light and IR protection factors should be comparable between products and provide the balance of UV, Blue Light and IR protection within a single product, an in vitro test method was developed and published by HelioScreen expressing the protection by means of the transmittance percentage stopped by the sunscreen product and the Critical Wavelength extended to these wavelengths. Visit their stand to find out more. IMCD Personal Care’s team of experts will


share their knowledge on market trends and ingredients, and discuss solutions that best fit your formulation needs and target markets at in-cosmetics Asia 2019 in Bangkok. This year for the very first time, the four different personal care labs in the region have collaborated to showcase several customised formulations on “beYOUty” - Beauty that speaks for YOU and your generation, solutions to your skin issues and inspirations for your daily beauty habits. This concept will be positioned into 3


target market segments, namely Gen Z: iGen, Gen Y: Millennials and Gen X: Forever Young. The innovative formulations will present the most effective ingredients to protect and address the specific skin issues and other main concerns of urban life.


September 2019


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