SKIN MICROBIOME 45
(AGA cream). The formulation of both creams is specified in Table 2. Before using the cream, the number of microorganisms was measured on the skin by cultivation on BHI. One hour after applying the cream the number of microorganisms was determined again. The results are shown in Figure 2. It is undoubtedly clear that preservatives destroy in 1 hour up to 90% of our microbial protection. It means that 90% of our antimicrobial peptides disappear, our acid protection against fungi is gone, the anti- ageing SOD protection is not there, inflammation suppression cannot be performed anymore, and the microbial hydration is missing. When 2kDa Inulin is combined with these destructive preservatives, the skin microbiota remains 5 times more active. The skin is better protected from the preservatives.
The long-term effect of preservatives on microbial hydration A formulation containing a milder preservative system (Euxyl PE9010: INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin) was applied for 1 month on the cheeks. The Placebo cream contained 0.1% hyaluronic acid 1.6 MDa, while the AGA cream contained 1.5% of 2kDa Inulin (preBiulin AGA) instead of hyaluronic acid (see Table
Table 3: The ingredients of the Placebo Cream (with Hyaluronic Acis) vs AGA Cream (with Inulin). Ingredients Aqua
Placebo cream (HA) AGA cream (Inulin) qs
qs
Euxyl PE9010 Glycerin
Xanthan Gum
Inulin Lauryl Carbamate Glyceryl Stearate PEG-100 Stearate Ethylhexyl Stearate Cetearyl Alcohol
preBiulin AGA (Inulin 2kDa) Hyaluronic acid 1.6 MDa
3). The molecular weight of the inulin is 800 times smaller than the hyaluronic acid. Therefore, the molecule of inulin cannot hydrate so efficiently as hyaluronic acid. Nevertheless, the cream containing 2kDa Inulin hydrates 20% better in 100% of the test performed on 20 volunteers. The hydration was measured with the corneometer and the results are presented in Figure 3. Through DNA sequencing the bacteria protecting the skin were inventoried before
0.9 3.1 0.2 0.3 2.5 2.5 15
0.9 3.1 0.2 0.3 2.5 2.5 15
33 0
0.1
1.5 0
and after using the cream. Since the skin contains many different species, the result is reported through the Shannon index. Reporting an index is a simpler method than to report all individual microorganisms. The Shannon index is obtained by multiplying each measured specie with its abundance in the community. A high index indicates a high diversity. In Figure 4 the Shannon index relative to the initial state (before using the cream) is presented. In the case of using preservatives the diversity
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