PRESERVATIVES 21
Ingredients focus: preservative technology
n Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care
The task of preserving personal care ingredients has never been more tricky. It was never an easy job in the first place, balancing the need to protect the user’s skin with the need to ensure the product is safe to use for a suitable amount of time. With the range of permitted preservatives steadily declining, this leaves formulators needing to be more creative with those ingredients that are left. Preservative ingredient suppliers are helping the task by creating blends that are effective in low levels in the enormously wide range of products that now flood the marketplace and fit in with the latest trends. Following is a selection from leading preservative ingredient suppliers.
Preservative ingredients Kemidant Plus from Akema is a powerful cosmetic preservative in solid form based on DMDM hydantoin & IPBC. It is a synergistic combination with the highest antimicrobial efficacy for the broad spectrum protection of
cosmetics in a wide pH range and without affecting the final appearance of formulations. Kemidant Plus represents an effective alternative to a parabens-based system, active at very low levels. Kemidant Plus is highly efficacious against Gram-negative bacteria, Gram- positive bacteria, yeasts and moulds. The synergistic combination of the antifungal properties of IPBC with the antibacterial properties of DMDM hydantoin provides both bactericidal and fungicidal activity already at 0.05%.
Kemidant Plus is soluble in alcohol and glycols, not soluble in water. Compatible with most cosmetic ingredients, it is stable to discoloration, effective over the range of pH 3-9, does not change odour & viscosity of finished cosmetics.
Kemidant Plus finds use in a wide range of personal care products: aqueous & hydro- alcoholic systems, surfactants-based, emulsions and anhydrous products. Typical
applications include: hair care; body & face care; make-up; shaving products; sun products; and bath products. Cosphatec launched an innovative
replacement for listed preservatives; a new all-natural, COSMOS-certified alternative preservative - Cosphaderm Sodium LAAS. The blend consisting of sodium levulinate and sodium anisate is a multifunctional with convincing benefits. The most interesting property is the strong antimicrobial efficiency against bacteria, yeasts and moulds. With only 1% Cosphaderm Sodium LAAS, formulators can replace listed preservatives in all kinds of cosmetic formulations. Furthermore, the advantages are the skin emollience, perfuming or masking effect as well as its high water- solubility, odour- and colourlessness. With a new production process, Cosphatec managed to use well-proven ingredients but avoid high concentration necessity, separation risks and high transportation or storage costs. Hence, Cosphaderm Sodium LAAS is a user- and eco-friendly antimicrobial system.
Customer demand for natural and
organic products is growing at a rapid rate, but so is the need for safe and effective preservatives. Dow Microbial Control, a business unit of DowDuPont Specialty Products, has launched two new product lines within its Neolone personal care preservatives portfolio: Neolone Bio, based on naturally derived ethyl lauroyl arginate (LAE) and Neolone PH phenoxyethanol blends.
Neolone Bio products are based on the broad-spectrum, naturally derived personal care preservative ethyl lauroyl arginate (LAE). LAE is non- sensitising, non-irritating and readily bio-degradable, which makes it ideal for leave-on and rinse-off and some oral care applications. LAE is listed on Annex V of
the European Commission Regulation and Annex VI of the ASEAN Bacteria on a surface. September 2019 Cosmetic Directive. PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
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