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90 SKIN PROTECTION


Skin microbiota: the new era of personal care ingredients


n Federica Carlomagno, Stefania Zanzottera – Roelmi HPC, Italy


This flora lives and transits on the surface and in the superficial layers of the epidermis and down to the hair follicles and glands, forming a complex ecosystem collectively referred as the skin microbiota. This little but important world is essential for the skin to be a complete barrier, accomplishing its activities of protection, immunity and defence.


The skin is the largest organ of the human body in surface and weight, serving as a physical barrier it protects our body from external aggressions. An adult’s skin hosts an average population of 1,000 billion microorganisms among fungi, viruses and bacteria.1,2,3


Each of us has a distinctive combination


of microorganisms all over our body, although scientists point out that the skin microbiome varies a lot intra-personally during our lives, linked to age, change of lifestyle or to the external stresses we are submitted to.4


Abstract


Skin is a complex environment where billions of microorganisms live providing a unique environment for each host, collectively referred to as the skin micriobiota. Skin microbiota is, therefore, the result of an equilibrium between protective and pathogens species of those microorganisms. However, this balance can be easily disrupted by stresses. An alteration of skin microbiota may lead to dysbiosis, which has been associated with skin disorders. The present paper aims to demonstrate the efficacy of a specific selected bacterial strain from cutting-edge biofermentation technology able to maintain skin homeostasis and consequent prevention of skin disorders.


Different body sites can have


completely different skin microbiota configurations, both inter- and intra- personally, linked to the peculiar characteristics of that precise micro- environment. For example, just focusing on the face, studies show that there are great differences between forehead and cheek skin microbiota, due to moist, dry and sebaceous skin sites.5


Despite continuous changes in its composition, when the body is in a homeostatic status, skin microbiota is an


100 80 60 40 20 0


+26.6%


equilibrium between protective and pathogenic microorganisms, living together in a complex community and having a number of different symbiotic interactions. If we consider bacteria, the most important and frequent phyla living on human skin are Actinobacteria, Firmicutes, Proteobacteria and Bacteroidetes, without huge differences among ethnicities. Anyway, going into more specific taxonomic classification, as class or genus or species, we can find differences among peoples’ microbiomes even though looking at subjects with very similar ages, lifestyles, and from the same ethnicities. The general truth for everyone seems to be really that it is the homeostatic condition of skin microbiota with its singular peculiarities that allows a healthy status of the skin. However, everyone’s microbiota balance can be easily disrupted by external and


+21.9% +8.1%


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Medium Salty Water Chlorinated water Medium +


Medium + Artificial water


n CTR- n CTR+ n 1% ÆCTive Figure 1: Cell viability evaluation. PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC Figure 2: Cell metabolism evaluation. September 2019


internal stresses. A strong change in the environment, for example, can alter skin microbiota leading to its dysbiosis, which has been often associated with skin disorders (skin inflammation, sunburn, dandruff, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne). Avoiding microbiota dysbiosis, i.e. maintaining microbiota equilibrium, may prevent skin disorders. Moreover, it is essential to maintain skin


microbiota’s natural biodiversity in different body sites, in order to let the skin barrier work in the best way possible. Starting from these two fixed points, the development of ingredients that can naturally balance the skin microbiota, while not interacting with its physiological changes and its biodiversity, becomes essential for cosmetic innovation, in order to obtain good performance with the lowest impact on skin homeostasis.


+26.6% +85%


+34.5%


Medium Salty Water


Chlorinated water


Medium +


Medium + Artificial water


n CTR- n CTR+ n 1% ÆCTive


Protein dosage (µg)


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