70 COLOUR COSMETICS
Easy to spread* Easy to apply* No mask effect*
The skin recovers a smooth aspect* Leaves the skin comfortable** Leaves the skin non sticky** Leaves the skin non greasy** No tight-feeling skin**
Fine lines and wrinkles are not accentuated** Leaves the skin soft**
Complexion is more uniform** Gives a healthy glow**
50%
* Immediately after application ** At the end of the study
Figure 4: Satisfaction questionnaire completed by panellists after the first application and after 28 days of application.
easy to use, cold processable, it enables the creation of ultra-fluid to thick textures without any co-emulsifier.
Thanks to its composition, it has also wetting properties which enable to disperse pigments and prevent reagglomeration. It can therefore be used at the beginning of the formulation process to facilitate the incorporation of the pigments into the oil phase.
A unique sensory imprint The sensory profile of the W/O emulsifier, shown in Figure 2, is characterised by a light and soft afterfeel, giving a “skin care” feel to foundations and mineral sunscreens. The skin appears naturally glowing – but not shiny – and both looks and feels hydrated.
The composition plays a significant role on this sensory impact. The supple carbon chains of the 12-HSA and RA molecules enrobe the pigments on the skin, giving a soft feel and natural non-transfer properties. The pigments are dispersed evenly and do not gather in fine lines or pores. The skin appears perfected, homogeneous and smooth.
Answer to a growing consumer expectation In order to better understand and target consumers’ expectations, particularly in terms of natural makeup, a clinical study was conducted on women, regular users of silicone foundations. The W/O emulsifier has been used at 5% in a natural formulation and validated non-
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
comedogenic through a dedicated clinical trial. Dermatological and self-assessment scoring were performed immediately after the first application to evaluate the foundation performance and after 28 days of application, on bare skin, to assess the skin quality. A satisfaction questionnaire has been completed by the panellists after the first application and at the end of the study. Throughout the study, they were not informed that the formulation they were testing was composed of natural origin ingredients only. Results presented in Figure 3 show that both immediate and long term benefits to the skin were observed by the dermatologist and the panellists themselves. In particular, a uniform complexion and a healthy glow were observed immediately after use. Therefore, the foundation formulated with the W/O emulsifier brings a uniform, flawless skin appearance and enhances the skin quality, even without any makeup. Moreover, Figure 4 shows that the
efficacy and pleasant application characteristics of the foundation were acclaimed by panellists. The W/O emulsifier meets consumer requirements in terms of foundation appearance and feel. According to the satisfaction questionnaire, three in four panellists expressed a desire to continue use of the foundation beyond the study. Unaware of the composition of the formulation, the performance was acclaimed. When informed of the natural, PEG and silicone-
free composition, an astounding 91% of panellists stated that they were willing to abandon their usual silicone formulation for the product tested. Therefore, the W/O emulsifier clearly answers the growing consumer expectation for more natural makeup.
Conclusion Emulium Illustro perfectly meets consumer expectations in terms of naturality and formulators’ requirements for performance and flexibility. It has been designed to facilitate its incorporation in W/O emulsions, to develop a particular affinity with pigments and stabilise the most refractory formulas. Emulium Illustro must be added in the oil phase, from 3 to 5%. Possibilities for application are various: colour cosmetics (foundations, concealers, BB and CC creams, highlighters, eye and lip products), sun care (organic and inorganic sunscreens) but also skin care. Indeed, of particular interest in pigmented colour and sunscreen formulations, it can also be used to formulate innovative textures for skin care. It allows to obtain a wide range of viscosities, from ultra-fluid to thick textures, and can be used in natural, organic and vegan formulations.
PC
Reference 1 Rodier JD et al. An efficient method to determine
the Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance of surfactants using the phase inversion temperature deviation of C E /n-octane/water emulsions. Int J Cosmet Sci 2019 Apr 7;41(2):99-108.
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