92 SKIN PROTECTION
4.9 4.4 3.9 3.4 2.9 2.4 1.9 1.4 0.9 0.4
T0 +7.5% *+13.3% ***
140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
T14 T28 T0 * -3.2% ** -7.2% * ***
100 80 60 40 20 0
T14 Time (days) * Significant (p<0,05) n Placebo n 1% ÆCTive Figure 4: Skin profilometry.
microbiota, leading to strong dysbiosis. The women involved in the study applied the placebo cream on one side of the face, particularly on the cheek, and the active cream on the other side. In this way the inter-personal differences among microbiotas were reduced, trying to normalise the starting point of every person involved (placebo Vs active T0). Product effects were evaluated after 14 (T14) and 28 (T28) days of daily product use by means of non-invasive bioengineering techniques, able to quantify the composition of skin flora (paying attention to bacteria) and by instrumental measurements to evaluate skin moisturisation, elasticity and profilometry. The two different analyses (genomic on
microbiome and instrumental on skin) were done to determine the effective microbiome equilibrium over time due to active ingredients use, followed by a better status of skin for hydration and elasticity. In fact, as the active ingredients is able to balance the microenvironment of the skin where we apply the cream that contains it, there the microbiota is more balanced, leading to a better capacity of the skin of doing its own activities.
The test showed that after 28 days of daily application, the cream containing the active ingredient resulted in: l A more balanced skin microbiome compared to placebo: Actinobacteria (the most present phylum on the skin) is a lot more in equilibrium in the active group and the most present genera on the skin are a lot more in equilibrium in the active group (data not shown)
l An improvement of skin moisturising respectively by +3.9% at T14 and by +5.5% at T28. This variation is statistically significant both compared to baseline and placebo formulation.
l An improvement of skin elasticity respectively by +3.6% at T14 and by +4.8% at T28. This variation is
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
statistically significant compared to baseline and placebo formulation.
l A decrease of SEr parameter (related to a decrease of skin roughness) respectively by -7.5% at T14 and by - 13.3% at T28. This variation is statistically significant compared to baseline and placebo formulation at the end of the study (T28).
l A decrease of SEw parameter (related to a decrease of skin wrinkles) respectively by -6.9% at T14 and by -7.8% at T28. This variation is statistically significant compared to baseline at T28 and compared to placebo formulation at each experimental monitored check.
l A decrease of R1 parameter (related to a decrease of skin roughness) respectively by -4.8% at T14 and by -6.5% at T28. This variation is statistically significant compared to baseline at T28.
l A decrease of R2 parameter (related to a decrease of maximum roughness) respectively by -2.7% at T14 and by - 5.2% at T28. This variation is statistically significant compared to baseline at T28.
l A decrease of R3 parameter (related to a decrease of average roughness) and R4 parameter (related to a decrease of wrinkles height) respectively by -2.6% at T14 and by -4.3% at T28 and by -4.8% at T14 and by -2.9% at T28.
l A decrease of R5 parameter (related to a decrease of the arithmetical average roughness) respectively by -1.5% at T14 and by -9.7% at T28. This variation is statistically significant compared to baseline at T28. The ingredient is an osmolyte able to maintain the environment around cells in equilibrium against external stresses: activity demonstrated by in vitro tests. The ingredient is the performing ingredient able to balance the environment on the skin, so the ecosystem microbiota: activity demonstrated by in vivo genomic tests. If the skin microbiota is in homeostasis, the
skin can work better: activity demonstrated by in vivo dermatological tests.
Conclusion
Recent studies on skin microbiota are opening a series of future developments in the personal care field. Cosmetics are no longer acting on human epidermis, but companies today are considering the effect of products on skin microbiota, which varies a lot among people. Cosmetics should treat these microorganism communities by protecting their natural stability and biodiversity, without altering their composition. The present work provides evidence of skin benefits after topical applications of cosmetic formulas containing ÆCTive®
. The
ingredient, developed through cutting- edge biofermentation technology, is the innovation for cosmetic formulators to effectively protect each person’s unique and varied microbiota.
PC
References 1 Grice EA, Segre JA. The skin microbiome. Nat
Rev Microbiol. 2011; 9: 244-253.
2 Findley K, Grice EA. The skin microbiome: a focus on pathogens and their association with skin disease. PLoS Pathog. 2014; 10: e1004436.
3 Mokni M, Abdelhak S. Flore cutanée, microbiote et microbiome. Dermatologie infectieuse. 2014: pp 4.
4 Nakako et al. Aging-related changes in the diversity of women’s skin microbiomes associated with oral bacteria; Sci rep. 2017; 7: 10567
5 Souvik Mukherjee Sebum and Hydration Levels in specific Regions of Human Face Significantly Predict the Nature and Diversity of Facial Skin Microbiome Sci. rep. 2016; 6:36062
6 Galinski EA, Pfeiffer HP, Truper HG. 1,4,5,6- Tetrahydro-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid. A novel cyclic amino acid from halophilic phototrophic bacteria of the genus Ectothiorhodospira. Eur J Biochem 1985; 149(1):135-9.
September 2019 ** Very significant (p<0,01) *** Extremely significant (p<0,001) T28 T0 * -6.9% ** -7.8%
* ***
T14
T28
SEr (skin roughness)
SEsm (skin smoothness)
SEw (skin swrinkles)
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