COVER STORY: MIBELLE BIOCHEMISTRY ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE NovoRetinTM
Retinol and structurally related molecules of the group of retinoids are well-known for their strong anti-aging effects and their use in the treatment of acne. However, most retinoids are not stable in formulations and the treatment with retinoids can lead to side effects, such as dry skin, photosensitivity, and redness, limiting the chronic therapeutic application and largely preventing the use in cosmetics. NovoRetin™ is a plant-based active ingredient that can increase naturally occurring retinoic acid in the skin and thereby induce retinol-like effects without the need to apply retinoids topically on the skin.
July 2022 INGREDIENTS ●
retinol alternative PERSONAL CARE
FORMULATION ●
MANUFACTURE GLOBAL
Boosting naturally occurring retinoic acid in the skin Retinoic acid is the most active metabolite of retinol and is therefore responsible for the effects of retinol on the skin. As retinoic acid plays an important role in the maintenance of the skin, it also occurs naturally in skin cells, where it is degraded by cytochrome P450 family 26 (CYP26) enzymes. By inhibiting CYP26 enzymes, it is possible to increase the levels of endogenous retinoic acid and achieve retinol-like effects. CYP26 inhibitors, such as talarozole, are therefore under pharmaceutical investigation as potential anti-acne drugs. NovoRetinTM
serves as
a plant-based CYP26 inhibitor. As demonstrated in in vitro studies, it significantly decreases the activity and gene expression of CYP26A1, a CYP26 isoform present in the skin. Tested in a 3D epidermis model, NovoRetinTM
increased the
expression of involucrin, a marker of retinoic acid activity, to a similar extent as the CYP26 inhibitor talarozole. Thus, by preventing the degradation of retinoic acid in the skin, NovoRetinTM
leads to
beneficial effects similar to the ones known from retinol applications.
Strong anti-aging effects and benefits for impure skin NovoRetinTM
, on the one hand, demonstrates
The remastering of classic collagen
The rise of multifunctional cosmetic ingredients
Challenge testing of preservation systems
PLUS: KOREAN LANGUAGE SECTION
strong anti-aging effects, as shown in a placebo- controlled clinical study on a cohort of 18 women (aged 42 to 70 years) with wrinkles in the crow’s feet area and signs of photoageing. After 28 days of treatment with a cream containing 2% NovoRetinTM
twice daily or the corresponding
placebo cream on the different sides of the face and on different areas on the forearms, facial skin elasticity and skin density on the forearm improved by 20.4% and 13.8%, respectively. An additional benefit of NovoRetinTM
and an
advantage compared to retinol is its ability to immediately reduce wrinkles and skin roughness after only a single application. By enhancing retinoic acid in the skin, NovoRetinTM
also
provides beneficial effects for acne-prone skin. Several clinical studies have demonstrated its anti-comedogenic effect and its ability to reduce
*p<0.001 versus initial conditions **P<0.01 versus initial conditions ***P<0.001 versus initial conditions and p<0.05 versus placebo
25 20 15 10 5 0
* *** ** Skin elasticity Skin density
Figure 1: Improved skin elasticity and skin density after application of 2% NovoRetin™ for 28 days
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Mibelle Biochemistry, Bolimattstrasse 1, 5033 Buchs, Switzerland
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
info@mibellebiochemistry.com
July 2022 PERSONAL CARE Placebo ■ 2% NovoRetin™ ■ : the natural
shininess, pore size, and skin imperfections. Pore refinement is a great benefit not only for impure skin but also for aged skin where pores often appear enlarged. In contrast to classic retinol treatments, NovoRetinTM
does not dry out the skin but even increases skin hydration.
A plant-based, stable, and safe retinol alternative NovoRetinTM
(INCI: Pistacia Lentiscus Gum/
Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum (and) Lecithin (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Aqua/Water) is based on mastic, a resin from the Pistacia lentiscus trees that grow on the Greek island of Chios. Mastic was the first natural chewing gum in the ancient world and has been consistently used in medicinal applications and skin care formulations for hundreds of years. The application of mastic in modern cosmetics, however, has been limited due to its insolubility in water. This is no longer an issue as Mibelle Biochemistry has developed a unique delivery system to make mastic bioavailable for the skin. The resulting active ingredient NovoRetinTM can be incorporated into most water-based formulations and offers an innovative alternative to retinol, because it enhances the levels of naturally occurring retinoic acid in the skin and therefore leads to retinol-like effects without the risk of the side effects known from retinoid applications. Therefore, NovoRetinTM
serves as an ideal
plant-based retinol alternative in cosmetics, providing both strong anti-aging effects and exceptional benefits for impure skin.
PC
7
Improvement in skin
parameters compared to initial conditions in %
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96
