34 ANTI-AGEING
Skincare: uniting clinical proof with perception
Harald van der Hoeven, Heiko Prade – CLR Berlin
In recent years the concept of anti-ageing skincare has changed rapidly in most parts of the world. The ‘anti’ in anti-ageing skincare is now essentially outdated. Skincare consumers are much more positive in their attitudes. ‘It is better to prevent than to cure’ and so on. People start using anti-ageing skincare
products at a far younger age than previously. They want to prevent, or at least slow down, the skin ageing process. In this effort they especially focus on the visible signs of ageing. Herein lies an enormous challenge for the cosmetics industry. The first part of providing a fitting answer
to the challenge is the recognition of the exact features which make skin look older. Anti-ageing skincare products have always focused on wrinkles, skin firmness and uneven pigmentation. The first two topics are indeed important for
how old skin looks, but the pigmentation factor is rather more nuanced, depending on the type of skin you have. Pigmentation plays a role in how old the skin looks, but zooming out is necessary. Apart from melanin, there are many more chromophores in the skin that play a role in the unevenness of skin colouration. With ageing, these chromophores can play a role in how old skin looks. There are three factors that play a role in
skin ageing. First of all, time. Skin ageing, for the biggest part, starts in the skin cells. In simplified terms: over time, skin cells lose their youthful functionalities and abilities. They become less proliferative and lose their capacity to react to challenges coming from the outside and inside of the body.
These outside (extrinsic) and inside
(intrinsic) influences constitute factors number two and three. Sunlight is a well-known extrinsic factor which influences the skin ageing process. It is said that 80% of all visible signs of skin ageing are caused by UV light (photoageing). Modern science has shown that infrared and visible light also accelerate the skin ageing process. Other factors, such as pollution and smoking, are further examples of extrinsic factors that influence the skin ageing process. Intrinsic factors have long been underrated as a source of skin ageing. Psychological stress, lack of sleep, diet,
PERSONAL CARE July 2022
and many more such factors can have a strong impact, for instance on the hormonal composition within our body. Stress hormones produced inside the human body, for example, are infamous for having a large negative impact on skin. How do these visible signs of skin develop mechanistically, and what influences do these factors have on the biological mechanical processes leading to the formation of wrinkles, unevenness in skin colour and loss of skin firmness and elasticity? In finding a solution, the cellular aspects of skin ageing need to be fully understood.
The main skin cells in relation to skin ageing are the keratinocytes and melanocytes of the epidermis as well as the fibroblasts of the dermis. Typical cellular features of skin ageing are an accumulation of nuclear DNA damage, a prolonged and unsuccessful DNA damage response, and
oxidative stress. Aged cells will enter a process in
ABSTRACT
The consumer’s mindset concerning skin ageing has dramatically evolved over the last 10 years. ‘Successful ageing’ and ‘better ageing’ have taken over from ‘anti- ageing’.1,2,3
The skin ageing process has many
facets. The consumer, however, is mostly interested in the visible signs of skin ageing and wants skincare products to provide effective support. Scientific literature tells us that there are three main factors in this context: skin topography (lines and wrinkles), evenness of skin colouration and ptosis/sagging.4,5,6,7 An active ingredient based on an extract
of the red alga Galdieria sulphuraria was developed to provide support to the skin in ageing better. In vitro studies showed that the ingredient was able to slow down the ageing process under simulated stress conditions, which are known to play a role in the skin ageing processes. The clinical efficacy of the ingredient,
taking into account the aforementioned three main factors of visible skin ageing, was assessed in depth and shown in this article.
which they turn senescent. Senescent skin cells are not able to proliferate, but their well-developed anti-apoptotic mechanisms ensure that they stay alive. Senescent cells remain metabolically strongly active. They constantly produce a number of inflammatory mediators and proteases, such as interleukin-6 (IL-6), IL-8 and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), such as MMP-1. The family of detrimental mediators and
proteases secreted by senescent cells is summarily called the senescence associated secretory phenotype (SASP). The members of the SASP are in essence an important cause of the deterioration of skin during ageing and play a major role in the development of the visible signs of skin ageing. For a cosmetic active ingredient fitting the
needs of the modern anti-ageing skincare consumer, it is opportune to act on the SASP and the senescent cells themselves. It is also important, however, to influence the process with which skin cells turn senescent. In this process GATA4 (GATA binding protein 4) was discovered as a main cell biological player. GATA4 is the main driver of cell senescence.
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