ANTI-AGEING HMGB1 (High Mobility Group Box-1) is
another focus. It is a nuclear protein which, in healthy and functional cells, resides inside the cell nucleus and plays an important role in healthy functionality. When skin cells become damaged, HMGB1 is secreted from the cells and enters the extracellular space. From this point onward, HMGB1 plays a
detrimental role. It initiates the production of a large group of inflammatory cytokines. HMGB1 is not just excreted by damaged cells, it is also a typical marker for senescent cells. It is important, therefore, to be put in the context of accelerated skin ageing and the development of the visible signs of skin ageing. An active ingredient which acts on GATA4
(through p62 and autophagy), senescence, SASP and HMGB1 will slow down the ageing process, the main interest of the anti-ageing skincare consumer. Another important need of this consumer should also be taken into consideration. The active ingredient needs to address those cellular features which allow for the production of important molecules in reducing the fine lines and superficial wrinkles. Cell energy (ATP) is an interesting indicator
for cell functionality, but the ability for fibroblasts (in interaction with keratinocytes) to produce, for instance, collagen Type I and hyaluronic acid, with and without the negative impact of the three factors of skin ageing mentioned above, is another important focus. On the basis of the above-described
approaches and philosophy, CLR Berlin developed CutiGuard CLR™ (GS Complex, INCI: Betaine, Sucrose, Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract). GS Complex is based on Galdieria sulphuraria, a red alga which can best be described as an extreme extremophile. It can be found in hot volcanic sulfur springs
but can just as well thrive among toxic metals like arsenic and mercury. Galdieria sulphuraria is an extremely adaptive and resilient species. In its quest to maintain viable even under the most hostile of environments, it can go through processes of “horizontal gene transfer,” where resilience genes from other unicellular species, archaea, are transferred to Galdieria sulphuraria to make it even more extreme in its extremophilic existence.
Placebo ■ 3% GS Complex ■
16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0
t14 vs t0 t42 vs t0 Figure 3: GS Complex reduces wrinkle volume
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Figure 4: GS Complex reduces wrinkle length. Wrinkle volume and length at t0 are set at 0%
12 10 8 6 4 2 0
t14 vs t0 t42 vs t0
5 4 3 2 1
0 -1
Placebo ■ 3% GS Complex ■ DAY 0
35
DAY 28
t14 vs t0
t28 vs t0
Figure 1: GS Complex reduces wrinkle density. Wrinkle density at t0 is set at 0%
A cleverly designed, extremely efficient and sustainable fermentation process leads to a highly efficacious hydrolyzed extract of Galdieria sulphuraria, which is at the core of GS Complex. A large number of in vitro-studies were performed with GS Complex, not shown.
In vivo studies: design, parameters and results The in vivo studies with GS Complex were performed taking the target audience into consideration. Furthermore, in order to mimic real-life skin ageing taking account of both extrinsic and intrinsic factors, the studies were performed in an urban environment in northwestern Europe during the fall. Here, the fall is a period of the year where
weather deteriorates and skin is exposed to more stress. The extrinsic factors of skin ageing express themselves particularly during this time of year in the form of fluctuating temperatures and humidity, especially between the outside (cold, humid) and inside environment (warm, dry). The intrinsic factors also become relevant
Placebo ■ 3% GS Complex ■
Figure 2: Visualization of results obtained with GS Complex in the eye area: day 28 versus day 0
during this time. It is a known fact that, especially in an urban environment, the psychological state of people deteriorates in the fall. This correlates with increased cortisol levels. The three aspects of visible skin ageing mentioned above were assessed and are described below. Thirty-two female volunteers aged between
36 and 50 years took part. Further study characteristics: double-blind, twice daily application for 28 to 42 days on hemiface, one side with placebo and other side with identical formulation including 3% GS Complex. Cutometer studies were performed on the inner forearm of 18 volunteers.
Wrinkle density Wrinkle density was a parameter which was assessed with GS Complex. The following technology was used: AEVA-HE high resolution 3D Imageing System (Eotech SAS, France), which uses fringe projection and cameras to analyze the topography of the skin surface. AEVA-HE allows for the determination of the surface area which is covered by lines, wrinkles and skin folds (A). It also allows for the determination of the whole surface area of the treated area (B). The parameter wrinkle density is mathematically determined: wrinkle density = A/B.
Results GS Complex reduces wrinkle density clearly more effectively than placebo (Figure 1). GS Complex can reduce the number, width and/or length of wrinkles. The example shown in Figure 2 shows that especially in the eye area the effect of GS Complex is clear.
Fine lines and wrinkles Another assessment, with an even more detailed approach, was performed on the eye area. The following technology was used: colourFace (Newtone Technologies, France), 2D high resolution standardized photography (filter: standard 60 lighting (STD60)). Image analysis and quantification of wrinkle
July 2022 PERSONAL CARE
Reduction of wrinkle volume %
Reduction of wrinkle lenght %
Reduction of wrinkle density %
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