MULTIFUNCTIONALS
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Figure 2: Evolution of the multifunctionals market
cosmetic industry by not only developing new chemistries, but also by discovering additional benefits for those multifunctional ingredients. This, combined with efforts to support
formulators to be able to appreciate and apply multifunctionals to their full potential, has the power of both meeting changing demands and driving those very changes. Several initiatives have been put in place to bring a greater understanding of the capabilities of these ingredients to the world.
1,2-Alkanediols - an important class of multifunctionals Multifunctional 1,2-alkanediols first appeared on the cosmetics market 30 years ago with the launch of pentylene glycol. Later additional alkanediols were added, namely caprylyl glycol and 1,2-hexanediol. The series was extended further later on with the launch of decylene glycol. As consumer interest grew towards more sustainable and green ingredients, a nature-derived version of pentylene glycol was developed. This was a revolutionary change. It was
bound to be followed by other green diols as a green transformation has been taking shape. Another quantum leap took place with the launch of 1,2-heptanediol in 2021, a chain
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length – 7 carbons – that was previously missing from the series of alkanediols. Its absence from the range of diols
was partly due to the lack of commercial availability of C7 raw materials. At the same time, the expectations for this diol may have been muted and simply limited to properties falling between 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol based entirely on structure- property relationships. Although alkanediols may appear very similar from a structural point of view, each of them proves to be unique in their properties often complementing each other with their benefits.
Other powerful multifunctionals Notwithstanding the diversity of alkanediols, other chemistries of multifunctionals also represent powerful solutions. Our goal is to expand the choices and offer the best tools available today for formula development. 4-Hydroxyacetophenone is, in this regard, a true power tool. A wide spectrum product protection
enhancer, its strong antioxidant property sets it apart from other multifunctionals. This soothing agent also provides a clear sensorial advantage. Ethylhexylglycerin and glyceryl caprylate offer further possibilities.
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Nature-derived ingredients The concept of green products based on sustainable, such as nature-derived, ingredients is not new. Recently, however, it has gone mainstream. With growing consumer education comes an increasing sense of responsibility for the wellbeing of not just ourselves but of our environment, as well, due to a deepening understanding of inherent connectedness and mutual influence. Consumers are more conscious about
their products’ impact on the environment. Natural formulations are also perceived – although not necessarily reflecting reality - to be safer, gentler, and healthier for the skin, thus benefiting both the consumer and the environment. Very recently, multifunctional cosmetic
ingredients have been experiencing a green transformation as nature-derived materials have been appearing on the market, offering alternatives for use even in completely green finished products or to make products greener. Sustainability is one of the core elements
in the corporate strategy of Symrise. It reflects throughout the entire value chain including the cultivation and decomposition of our key raw materials, our local partners and suppliers around the world, product development and
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Figure 3: Challenge tests results for the combination of 1,2-hexanediol/caprylyl glycol with potassium sorbate at pH 5.5. a) 0.15% 1,2-hexanediol, 0.15% caprylyl glycol; b) 0.15% potassium sorbate; c) 0.15% 1,2-hexanediol, 0.15% caprylyl glycol, 0.15% potassium sorbate
www.personalcaremagazine.com July 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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