30 ANTI-AGEING


EPIDERMAL COMPACTNESS BINDING SITES REINFORCEMENT COLLAGEN FIBRES TENSION (LIFTING) COLLAGEN SYNTHESIS DERMAL REJUVENATION


Figure 2: Col-Frag remastered mechanism of action: epidermal compactness, binding sites reinforcement, collagen fibres tension(lifting), collagen synthesis and dermal rejuvenation.


This mRNA-based innovative technology


has allowed to acquire a fragment of collagen with vegetal origin and identical-to-human both functionally and structurally: the collagen fragment has collagen type I-like activity, contains specific integrin-binding and cell-attachment binding motifs and includes the proper posttranslational modifications to be completely functional. This collagen type I fragment acts as


a building block and booster for collagen synthesis, and tightens the dermis and epidermis while preventing senescence. Moreover, it revealed a synergistic effect and a superior efficacy to Ascorbyl Glucoside in reducing wrinkles, providing a facelift and enhancing skin brightness (Figure 2). The collagen fragment thus emerges as a new alternative to traditional collagen, with great anti-ageing potential and of plant-based origin.


Improving epidermal compactness Cell-cell adhesion in the epidermis is involved in epidermal structural integrity and barrier


NON-TREATED formation.7 A compact epidermis ensures a


better protection from external factors and will also allow a glowing and healthier look. Keratinocytes were incubated in plates


previously coated with different concentrations of the collagen fragment and cell adhesion capacity was evaluated. The collagen fragment I was able to increase the capacity of keratinocytes to adhere in a concentration-dependent manner. Therefore, this plant-based collagen fragment proved to be effective in maintaining the compactness and the integrity of the epidermis, reversing the effects of ageing in this layer.


Enhancing epidermal tension Keratinocytes preserve the tensile strength of the epidermis as they are linked to each other via cell–cell adhesions and, in the basal layer, to the basement membrane via cell–matrix adhesions. Thus, forces within the epidermis are transmitted both within and across layers and provide epidermis compactness. A tensor effect assay was performed in skin


1% COL-FRAG REMASTERED


explants, which were treated with a commercial solution containing the active ingredient (1%) or with a benchmark/positive control (40% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate). Fluorescent beads were placed on the surface of the skin explants and their movement was recorded for 24 hours. Displacement analysis showed an all-


direction and greater significant displacement of fluorescent beads along the surface of the explants that had been treated with the collagen fragment compared to those who had been treated with Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Figure 3). Thus, the identical-to-human collagen fragment is able to trigger a significant tensor effect on skin surface, leading to a global lifting effect.


A powerful collagen booster Chronologically aged skin is characterized by collagen fragmentation, total collagen reduction and decreased collagen-synthetic capacity.8


In


order to confirm the ageing reversal ability of our active ingredient, procollagen I synthesis


40% SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE


Figure 3: Bead displacement in 2D on skin surface. Movement is represented by colour and vectorial arrow, so that the redder the vectorial arrow, the higher the bead displacement and the tensor effect. Note the greater bead displacement with 1% Col-Frag remastered treatment (+200%**) compared to 40% Sodium Ascorbyl Phospate (+151%*)


PERSONAL CARE July 2022 www.personalcaremagazine.com


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