40 MULTIFUNCTIONALS
optimisation of our manufacturing processes at our sites, and sale of our products to our customers and consumers worldwide. When it comes to multifunctionals, there
are still very limited options for eco-friendly and bio-based ingredients. Pentylene glycol, sourced from bagasse, a waste product of the sugar cane industry, was the first 100% nature-derived 1,2-alkanediol in cosmetics and it has an outstanding sustainability profile. It is a skin conditioning agent that offers skin moisturisation, superior sensorial effects and reduces emulsion tackiness. Beside this, it also helps in improving the stability of emulsions. Despite the challenges of developing green
1,2-alkanediols, with raw materials coming from surprisingly different sources even for the same chemical family, nature-derived 1,2-heptanediol was launched in 2021 and caprylyl glycol in 2022. Green 1,2-heptanediol is a particularly
note-worthy addition to the group of nature- derived multifunctionals not only because it is derived from a natural raw material, but because of its unique benefits and performance, as well. 1,2-Heptanediol has some of the most ideal characteristics, such as being a liquid product with good water solubility and benefits for both the formulator and consumer. 1,2-Alkanediols are often used as part
of modern product protection systems due to their versatility, stability, and reliable performance. While the use levels may depend on the chain length, they all can contribute to complete protection in smart combinations. With the availability of a range of
nature-derived 1,2-alkanediols, now it has become possible to employ these robust multifunctional ingredients in green formulations, extending the possibilities for creating more diverse green products. Even in traditional formulas, they can increase the natural origin content (NOC) of the formulation for more sustainable products for the eco- conscious consumers. Glyceryl caprylate is a 100% nature-
derived multifunctional ingredient, the ester of glycerin and caprylic acid from palm kernel oil with RSPO mass-balance certification. The primary function of this glyceryl monoester is moisturisation and refattening of the skin. It has a co-emulsifying effect in emulsions and pigment dispersions. Besides their primary function, certain glyceryl monoesters demonstrate effective product protection enhancing properties. ‘Nature identical’ is a term that is gaining
attention as more consumers are looking for ingredients that are inspired by nature. These are ingredients that occur in nature, but their extraction from plants is not a feasible or sustainable option to produce the volumes required by the personal care industry. They have an identical chemical structure compared to the molecules found in nature and have the same physiochemical properties. One such example is
4-hydroxyacetophenone, a naturally occurring ingredient that is found in cloudberries and Lampaya hieronymi, a flowering plant
PERSONAL CARE July 2022 A
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Figure 4: Challenge tests results of 0.2% 4-hydroxyacetophenone in an O/W emulsion at a) pH=6, b) pH=5.5, c) pH=5.0, d) pH=4.5
found in the Arctic Circle. Like all arctic plants, cloudberries have the ability to survive extremely cold temperatures and function in conditions with short summers. They have adapted to harsh conditions and
evolved to produce specific compounds that allow them to perform their vital functions at freezing temperatures. One of these compounds is hydroxyacetophenone. While it is not feasible to extract the ingredient from the cloudberry plant, the molecule is a perfect candidate for production of a component we know from nature. The benefits of hydroxyacetophenone
as a multifunctional ingredient are its excellent soothing properties and antioxidant capabilities, as mentioned above. Additionally, it improves the efficacy of preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, organic acids, and many others, making it a safe and effective nature- identical choice for formulators.
Multifunctionals empowered Multifunctional ingredients can be effectively combined with preservatives or other product protection enhancers in order to improve their efficacy even at lower use levels than would be required without the multifunctional. In fact, this effect is mutual, and it may also result in lower use levels of the multifunctionals without sacrificing their impact on the antimicrobial protection. Curiously, the combinations of
multifunctionals do not have to be strictly with other antimicrobial chemical substances. A variety of chemical and physical factors may exert effects - some great, some small - on the growth and viability of microorganisms. Examples of such factors include chemical
methods, such as adding preservatives or varying the acidity/alkalinity, and physical methods, often environmental conditions, such as temperature, or deliberate treatments, such as sterile packaging. Smart product protection must consider
the potential of such cumulative, and in some cases synergistic, opportunities. The concept of SymshieldTM
, a technology platform built to
explore these interactions, is to optimise the performance of multifunctionals and maximise their potential by combining them with appropriate factors in order to inhibit or retard microbial growth in a formulation. Even though the single individual barriers
are not strong enough alone, the cumulative effect of several can provide sufficient product protection or make the product protection system more robust. The number of combinations can be as little as two or more, depending on the efficacy of the individual factors and the possible synergism between them. It is intuitive to recognize the potential of
multifunctionals as important elements of this technology representing one of the possible barriers. Premixed commercial blends, which have long been available on the market, are indeed examples of this technology in practice. Moreover, one of the applications of
the concept is to empower multifunctionals to achieve their maximum performance for product protection. By systematically investigating combinations of different multifunctionals with factors, such as pH, water activity, chelating agents, etc., a deep understanding of interactions is gathered that is ultimately intended to help formulators use multifunctionals to their full potential.
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