44 ANTI-AGEING
Vectorised hyaluronic acid for perfect skin
Mathias Fleury, Amandine Scandolera, Melanie Pelican, Romain Reynaud - Givaudan Active Beauty
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is perceived as a gold standard for skin care, leading the beauty market as one of its hero molecules; the most mentioned and requested by consumers when talking about innovation, trends and efficacy.1 However, while consumers are aware that HA can penetrate the skin, they may not know that high molecular weight (HMW) HA, which offers the greatest hydration benefits, does not spontaneously penetrate.2 Cristalhyal® e-Perfection, hereafter known
as the bentonite clay HA active ingredient, changes this paradigm by making it possible for HMW HA to reach deep epidermal layers, which previously seemed impossible. The bentonite clay HA active ingredient
brings together two hero ingredients of the beauty industry: HWA HA and clay. One is praised for its efficiency and
is found virtually everywhere in cosmetic products. The latter, most commonly found as bentonite, coming from volcanic ash sediments, is well known among beauty addicts for its skin purification, detoxification and mattifying effects, while its natural and mineral origin may be a key purchasing argument. With this complex, consumers can enjoy synergistic benefits from popular ingredients they are mostly educated about, in a clean and natural formula they can trust.
HA ‘e-vectorisation’ through clay complexation For molecules to penetrate into the skin, there are only a limited number of mechanisms like transappendageal (through appendages, such as the pilosebaceous unit), transcellular or intercellular. Only this last one can be identified as realistic for a ‘large’ molecule such as HA. Yet even though HMW HA does not
penetrate if only applied on top of the skin, through passive diffusion. To help it penetrate, it is necessary to exploit electrostatic interactions, by modulating the charges on the molecule, e.g. ionophoresis, the principle of micro-current devices. Givaudan Active Beauty experts looked for
the best way to influence charges of the HA molecule, by adapting the composition of the ingredient. They identified bentonite, a specific type of clay from volcanic ash sediments, as
PERSONAL CARE July 2022
an interesting candidate. Indeed, it
presents a specific organisation in a so-called lamellar
structure, an aggregate of lamellar platelets packed
together by electrochemical forces and containing interposition water. To equilibrate the natural negative charges of the bentonite itself, this lamellar structure usually entraps exchangeable cations, such as calcium, magnesium or sodium. Thanks to a patented and proprietary
process, bentonite can be activated to entrap efficiently molecules of HMW HA. This results in a complex between clay and HA, where HA molecules are negatively charged, more than in HA native conditions - as it is in contact with cations - and thus benefit from an electrical attraction from the skin’s deep layers where positive charges can be found. This innovation gave birth to the bentonite
clay HA active ingredient, naturally vectorising HMW HA into the skin, reaching performances never achieved before.
Triple action for in-depth skin perfectness Thanks to the combination of HA and bentonite, HMW HA penetrates deeply into the skin - up to 75 μm. This results in benefits like hydration with a real long-lastingness - more than 24 hours - smoothing of the skin, decreasing fine lines in the crow’s feet area and an impressive mattifying and detox effects, thanks to the well- known activities of clay for skin perfection. During the clinical test versus the placebo,
the bentonite clay HA active ingredient not only demonstrated long-term benefits with a prolonged use of the product (28 days), but also brought an instant gratification, with significant anti-ageing and mattifying benefits after just one application, in one to six hours.
Modification of HA electrical potential for skin attraction Thanks to the lamellar structure of bentonite, and the presence of cations in between the platelets, HA will create a complex with the clay, and will be entrapped in the interstitial space, with a high affinity for this structure. By doing so, HA becomes even more negatively charged than into its ‘native’
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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