36 ANTI-AGEING
properties was based on cropped images with segmentation. Activity on the volume of wrinkles and lines was determined based on multiplication of pixels (surface area) and pixels (depth). Surface area: total number of pixels in area. Length: total number of pixels in morphological skeleton of area.
Results Over the course of 42 days, GS Complex showed to be more effective in reducing the volume and length of fine lines and wrinkles than placebo (Figures 3, 4, and 5).
Skin firmness and elasticity Loss of skin firmness and elasticity leads to ptosis/skin sagging. These parameters were assessed with a Cutometer MPA 580 (Courage & Khazaka, Germany). With this device, negative air pressure is applied to the skin surface through the probe aperture. The resultant elevation of the skin surface into the suction chamber is measured as well as the skin’s mechanical behaviour after release of the negative air pressure (‘relaxation’). Elevation of the skin into the probe is measured by an optical system in the cutometer. Different skin mechanical parameters are
determined. R0 (correlates inversely with skin firmness), R1 (correlates with skin tonicity), R2 (overall elasticity, correlates inversely with skin ageing), R5 (netto elasticity, correlates strongly and inversely with skin ageing), R7 (biological elasticity, correlates strongly and inversely with skin ageing).
Results Especially on the most important parameter, R5 and R7, GS Complex outperformed the corresponding placebo formulation (Figure 6).
Skin colour evenness Having an even skin colour is an important topic, not just for ‘how old’ skin looks, but also for overall attractiveness of skin. An analysis was performed with colourFace standardized photography (filter: cross-polarized). Parameter for skin colour evenness: H76.
From all pixels in the photographs, the L*, a* and b* values were determined. H76 represents the
t14 vs t0 ■ t28 vs t0 ■
6 5 4 3 2 1
0 Firmness R0 R1 R2 Elasticity R5 R7
Figure 6: GS Complex improves the mechanical properties of skin. Activity of placebo is set at 0%
PERSONAL CARE July 2022
30 25 20 15 10 5 0
t28 vs t0 t42 vs t0
Figure 7: GS Complex improves the evenness in skin colour. Skin colour evenness at t0 is set at 0%
t0 t42
Figure 5: Individual result obtained with GS Complex, t42 vs. t0.
standard deviation of the determined colours of all the pixels. Some types of colour cosmetic products (make-up) are used to provide evenness in skin colour. The effect of such products on the parameter H76 as a determinant of skin colour evenness, was considered to be a benchmark-effect and set at 100%.8
For the study, GS Complex’s activity on
skin colour evenness was put in the context of the effect of make-up.
Results After 42 days, GS Complex clearly improves skin colour evenness (Figure 7). It was able to reach an effect that was more than 27% of what can be reached with the benchmark make-up.
Conclusion The need of the consumer to age better, poses the skincare industry new challenges. A new and improved way of thinking is required, but one which provides interesting opportunities. The new preventive approach of the consumer includes delaying the occurrence of the first signs of ageing and an effective approach once these signs start to occur. An active ingredient, based on the red
alga Galdieria sulphuraria (GS Complex) was assessed for its activity on the most relevant
Placebo ■ 3% GS Complex ■
visible signs of skin ageing. The studies showed that this ingredient acted against fine lines, wrinkles and skin sagging. It also showed to be able to clearly improve
skin colour evenness, a parameter that has been often underrated and includes more than hyperpigmentation alone.
PC
References 1. Linter K. Better Aging vs. Anti-Aging. Special Chem. August 2019. https://cosmetics.
specialchem.com/tech-library/article/better- aging-vs-anti-aging
2. Lim A. ‘Age reversal is dead’: How the pandemic redefined anti-ageing for beauty consumers. Cosmetics Design Asia. January 2022.
https://www.cosmeticsdesign-asia. com/Article/2022/01/13/How-the-pandemic- redefined-anti-ageing-for-beauty-consumers
3. Dover S. 6 strategies for skincare brands to promote a holistic approach to ageing well. Mintel. February 2022.
https://clients.mintel. com/insight/promote-a-holistic-approach- to-ageing-well-in-skincare
4. Merinville E et al., Influence of facial skin ageing characteristics on the perceived age in a Russian female population, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2015 Oct;37 Suppl 1:3-8. doi: 10.1111/ ics.12252
5. Flament F et al., Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age and skin plumpness among differently aged Korean women, Skin. Res. Technol. 2021 Jul;27(4):526-536. doi: 10.1111/ srt.12980. Epub 2020 Nov 9
6. Samson N et al., Interaction of skin colour distribution and skin surface topography cues in the perception of female facial age and health, J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2011 Mar;10(1):78- 84. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2010.00538.x
7. Fink B et al., Visible skin colouration predicts perception of male facial age, health and attractiveness, Int. J. Cosmet Sci. 2012 Aug;34(4):307-10. doi: 10.1111/j.1468- 2494.2012.00724.x. Epub 2012 May 17
8. Batres et al. Cosmetics increase skin evenness: Evidence from perceptual and physical measures, Skin Res. Technol. 2019 Sep;25(5):672-676. doi: 10.1111/srt.12700. Epub 2019 May 20
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Improvement %
Improvement in skin colour eveness %
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