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NEWS
Shiseido develops technology to control hyaluronic acid volume
Japanese beauty company Shiseido has taken the wraps off Shape- Shifting HA Technology, which is claimed to control the volume of hyaluronic acid (HA) to increase skin moisture. HA forms a water retention film on the skin surface and exerts a high moisturizing effect, but at the same time, its very large molecular size hinders penetration into the stratum corneum after application. With the new technology, says
Shiseido, HA shrinks via the addition of magnesium ions and dramatically increases its penetration into the stratum corneum compared to normal HA.
“We aim to realize soft and
dewy skin through the application of the Shape-Shifting HA Technology, the most advanced technology that controls the volume of high molecular HA to enhance its penetration and function in the stratum corneum,” it added. In a related development,
In addition, this technology
re-expands the shrunken HA via the addition of sodium metaphosphate, a type of chelating agent, resulting in restoration of the original properties of HA and increasing the water content in the stratum corneum. Some of these research results
were presented at the 142nd Annual Meeting of the Pharmaceutical Society of Japan. “We at Shiseido have been
conducting this research under the Inside/Outside approach of our R&D philosophy, Dynamic Harmony,” the company said in a statement.
Cosmax 'discovers next-gen skin microbiome'
K-Beauty outfit Cosmax has claimed it has discovered an anti-ageing ‘second-generation skin microbiome’ named Rappoilot that will be trademarked and commercialised. In a study, microorganisms were
found through a skin microbiome analysis of 1,000 Korean test participants. Through this process, Cosmax
says it has succeeded in discovering a new group of microorganisms from infants and children who have high skin firmness and skin barrier density. Microbiome combines
'microbes', which inhabit human tissue, and 'biome', referring to an ecosystem. It refers to the microorganisms and their genetics inside the human body. It is often found in the intestinal, skin, oral, or respiratory organs but their individual functions have not yet been proved.
In 2019, the South Korean
company launched products containing its first generation microbiome named Strain CX, which was discovered in young women's skin. It is said to utilise microorganisms in the human skin to activate beneficial bacteria and maintain clear skin. Cosmax's second-generation skin
microbiome was discovered through a culture method that imitates the skin's actual environment.
The new strain is the third in
about 2,000 bacteria, hence called KERA-3. Compared to the first-
generation skin microbiome, says Cosmax, Rappoilot’s efficacy is “more balanced in all areas of the skin's condition”. “It is particularly efficacious in
lipid synthesis, skin firmness, and skin barrier reinforcement,” the company said in a statement. A study on Rappoilot will be published in International Journal of Systematic and Evolutionary Microbiology, it added. "Cosmax did not stop at
pioneering the skin microbiome market. We continued extended studies to create research outputs as well,” said Cosmax president Lee Byung-man.
"Within the next five years,
we will build a skin microbiome research roadmap”, he added.
Clariant launches naturals formulation tool
Clariant has launched BeautyForward 6, a digital tool designed to ease the research and selection of natural ingredients. The Swiss company says the
new tool offers formulators and brands the chance to calculate the percentage natural content of any formulation.
PERSONAL CARE July 2022 Powered by standardized data
on the Renewable Carbon/Natural Origin indices of over 800 Clariant and non-Clariant ingredients for personal care applications, BeautyForward 6 calculates percentage formulation naturality using ISO 16128 methodology with two options to aid research.
Formulations can be saved within each user’s personal accounts for access and reference at a later date. To support with ingredient research, the tool also makes it possible for users to access more detailed ingredient information, as well as to request samples.
Shiseido has published the results of a study, which has discovered that magnesium ions (Mg2+) act on epidermal cells to promote cellular HA production and induce spermidine production, protecting the cells from oxidative damage such as UV rays.
L’Oréal places orders for Isonaturane 12
Global Bioenergies has received its first orders totalling several tonnes of its naturally-sourced isododecane product, Isonaturane 12, from L’Oréal. Isododecane is used in make-
up to deliver long-wear properties, and in skincare and haircare for textures with lightness and softness. Global Bioenergies makes
a bio-sourced version of Isododecane, manufactured entirely in France from locally sourced raw materials, that meets ISO 16128 requirements in terms of naturalness in cosmetics products. The Paris company said
the first orders from L’Oréal, its leading shareholder via the cosmetic giant’s BOLD (Business Opportunities for L’Oréal Development) investment fund, will contribute to support the L’Oréal for the Future sustainability programme. Daphne Galvez, Global
Bioenergies commercial director, added: “A further spate of orders is under preparation: at in-cosmetics Global, the world-leading event for cosmetics ingredients held in Paris (in April) at which we launched Isonaturane 12 on the market, we held around a hundred discussions with a range of stakeholders.”
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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