46 ANTI-AGEING


after the application, often compared to a satin touch. A large proportion of the panel showed a preference for an emulsion containing the bentonite clay HA active ingredient at 1% versus the same emulsion without it.


Fine lines smoothing and mattifying benefits: from flash-efficacy to long-term benefits To evaluate the benefits of the bentonite clay HA active ingredient in face care applications, a clinical test was conducted in double blind versus placebo. This study was carried out on 39 women (average age 49 years old, from 35 to 55 years old), selected for their dry skin on the cheek and their fine lines on the crow’s feet area. Two groups of volunteers were formed, and panelists applied a cream with or without 1% of the bentonite clay HA active ingredient twice a day (morning and evening) for 28 days on their full face. Skin smoothing and mattifying benefits


were evaluated thanks to ColorFace® technology, on the first day after just one application of the product, respectively one and six hours after the application, and after 28 days. The final application is performed on day 27 evening so that there is no product left on their skin and no ‘surface’ effect from the clay.


The benefits of the bentonite clay HA


active ingredient after a single application were determined by assessing the crow’s feet surface and the skin’s brightness one hour and six hours after the product application. Results demonstrate that the bentonite clay HA active ingredient significantly improves skin’s appearance in just one to six hours. Fine lines are reduced by down to -21.5%


versus T0 and -17.4% versus placebo, while skin’s brightness is decreased by down to -27.4% vs T0, and -11.0% vs placebo. This demonstrates a powerful well-ageing and mattifying efficacy in just one application. The benefits of the bentonite clay HA active


ingredient after one month of application were determined by assessing the crow’s feet surface and the skin’s brightness on D28. Volunteers were asked to stop the use of the product on the evening of D27, so that they don’t have any product on the skin for the evaluation. The results demonstrate that the bentonite clay HA active ingredient improves skin’s appearance with a prolonged use of the product.


Fine lines are reduced by down to -27.3%


versus D0, and -22.7% versus placebo, while skin’s brightness is decreased by down to -9.9% versus D0, and -10.2% versus placebo. This highlights a significant well-ageing and mattifying efficacy with a prolonged use of the product.


References 1. Givaudan CMI study. My Beauty Community/My Dream Beauty. November 2021.


2. Givaudan CMI study. Focus on HA. April 2020.


3. Gillet et al. 2011. Tokudome et al. 2015. PERSONAL CARE July 2022 Figure 5: Cristalhyal e-Perfection results on reduction of crow’s feet wrinkles in six hours www.personalcaremagazine.com Untreated ■ Clay 1% ■ HMW HA0 0.1% ■ Cristalhyal® e-Perfection 1% ■ 200% 150% +9% 100% 50% 0% -6%


-28% #


+47% **


+98% **


+108% **


8h Figure 3: Cristalhyal e-Perfection long-lasting hydration benefits T + 1h


0% -5%


-10% -15%


-20% -25%


-1.1% n.s.


-5.0% n.s.


-17.4%*


-18.5% **


-16.5%*


-21.5% *


Wilcoxon test vs D0, Mann Whitney test vs Placebo: #p<0.1, *p<0.05, **p<0.01, ***p<0.001 Figure 4: Cristalhyal e-Perfection results on reduction of crow’s feet wrinkles in one hour T + 1h


0% -5%


-10% -15%


PC


-20% -25% -30%


-16.4% **


-11.0%


-27.4% ***


Placebo ■ Cristalhyal® e-Perfection 1% ■ T + 6h


Placebo ■ Cristalhyal® e-Perfection 1% ■ T + 6h


24h Mann Whitney test: #p<0.05, **p<0.01


-8.6%*


-12.5% n.s.


-21.1% *


ΔD0Dx Skin brightness (%)


ΔD0Dx Crow’s feet surface (%)


Skin suppleness (% of untreated)


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