38 MULTIFUNCTIONALS
The rise of multifunctional cosmetic ingredients
Balint Koroskenyi - Symrise
Long gone are the days when cosmetic products escaped scrutiny by the consumers and sold solely on the appeal of look and feel, glorified by savvy marketing. Today’s consumers are more educated than ever. This is not surprising considering how social media revolutionised the way information is shared between individuals, some with astoundingly large number of followers. Online resources and various apps are
literally at the fingertips of the public to decipher formulas and dissect compositions. According to market researcher NPD Group’s Women’s Facial Skincare Consumer Report, 50% of women surveyed in the USA looked for information online before buying a product at a store. A 2018 study conducted by Symrise showed
that close to 70% of consumers claimed that they could identify responsibly sourced ingredients in products, and, remarkably, 80% of consumers were willing to pay more for them. This inevitably resulted in a consumer demand for shorter INCI lists (lists of ingredients on product packaging) for greater transparency and for increased sustainability. The philosophy of minimalism was born
out of this trend. Ingredients that can play more than one role in a formulation, thus reducing the number of required ingredients, are beneficial for this concept. Consuming less and consuming better has been gaining traction and is only expected to become more dominant in the future. Educated consumers are keen to make smart decisions with regards to what they put on their skin or hair, from whole formulations down to the individual ingredients. Important aspects considered are eco-friendliness,
safety, effectiveness, and, of course, distinct enjoyable consumer experience. Educated consumers call for educated
formulators. Symrise is committed to supporting formulators in their development by acquainting them with the ‘power’ and ‘magic’ of ingredients that we believe to be a new way to envision modern cosmetic formulations: multifunctional ingredients.
The benefits of multifunctionals Multifunctional ingredients are widely known
for their effectiveness in enhancing product protection. They are safe, stable, versatile, and offer reliable performance. As a testament to their widespread use, according to Mintel, 8.5% (7,600 products) of all personal care launches and 17.3% of skin care launches contained caprylyl glycol, while 4.4% (39,000 products) of all personal care launches and 16.5% of skin care launches in the past five years had 1,2-hexanediol as an ingredient. Despite being a popular choice by
formulators for a variety of different formulation types and compositions to be used for product protection, most formulators overlook the potential of multifunctional ingredients to play other roles in a finished product and do much more than just help protect against spoilage. Formulators face almost daily challenges to develop high quality, functional, appealing and stable products. At the same time, the change in consumer
expectations creates constant challenges trying to meet their demands. Multifunctional ingredients are not only suited but even designed to deliver the multiplicity of functions formulators and consumers seek. They are truly designed to ‘do more with less’. Continuous investment in innovation
Figure 1: The benefits of multifunctionality PERSONAL CARE July 2022
allows for offering new solutions to the evolving challenges and demands of the
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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