ANTI-AGEING
The remastering of classic collagen
M Neus Fullana, Miriam Mateu, Ariadna Grau-Campistany, Silvia Pastor – LipoTrue
If there is a classic in cosmetics, it is collagen. Classics are timeless and are valued for their outstanding quality and comfort. That is why people have developed a trustworthy relationship with them, becoming must-haves since there is no doubt of their excellence. Classics seldom follow trends. On the
contrary, they remaster themselves setting trends by inspiring higher levels of excellence, technology and performance. This is the case of collagen, whose exceptional anti-ageing properties have been passed down for generations. People trust in this ingredient for its efficacy and as a habit, becoming loyal to those products containing collagen. Skin ageing is a complex process that
compromises skin barrier integrity and involves structural and functional changes at the level of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM).1 Collagen and, specifically, type I collagen, as the principal component of the dermal ECM, is the main responsible for the stability and strength of the skin and it is subjected to a progressive fragmentation and reduction as we age. This gradual degradation of collagen ends up
causing matrix disorganization and altering the function of resident fibroblasts, the type of cells responsible for collagen synthesis.2 Structurally, type I collagen is a protein
constituted by three collagen chains assembled in a triple helical configuration. Before acquiring the definitive three-dimensional structure, the collagen subunits have to undergo extensive post-translational modifications which are essential for the correct assembly, integrity and functionality of the protein.3 In chronologically aged skin, the rate of
collagen synthesis, activity of enzymes that act in
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the post-translational modification and thickness of collagen fibre decrease.4
Studies show that
products containing or boosting collagen may actually slow signs of ageing (wrinkles, thin skin etc.) by keeping the skin hydrated, pumped and elastic and by shifting the production- degradation balance (enhancing procollagen synthesis and diminishing its breakup).5 Traditional collagen was sourced from animals such as cows or fishes. However, customers have evolved towards demanding animal-friendliness and more sustainable sources of collagens. Nowadays, new types of collagens have appeared in the market: synthetic collagen, biomimetic collagen molecules, collagen booster ingredients and recombinant
collagen produced by bacteria, yeasts or even plant-cultures. However, expression systems involving
prokaryotic organisms have some limitations such as the presence of endotoxins and the lack of essentials enzymes responsible for the post- translational modifications (i.e., hydroxylation). These limiting features do not allow the production of fully collagen molecules.6
Collagen’s new age Col-Frag remastered™, hereafter known as the collagen fragment, is a fragment of type I collagen produced in wild plants as biofactories by transient expression. Specifically, this synthetic fragment of collagen protein is cloned into an expression vector, transcribed in vitro into mRNA and inserted through the leaves into the cytoplasm of vegetal cells while nucleus remains untouched (non-GMO). Thus, the plant itself starts to produce the
protein naturally, i.e., using its own protein synthesis mechanisms. The leaves are then harvested and the protein extracted and purified in order to obtain the desired collagen type I fragment. Therefore, the manufacturing process of the collagen fragment does not alter the function and the nature of the plants used as biofactories. In addition, the process has been developed
www.personalcaremagazine.com Figure 1: Indoor vertical farms of N. benthamiana owned by LipoTrue
to be completely sustainable, involving the use of indoor vertical farms designed to follow the specifications of controlled-environment agriculture and to be under the Green Chemistry guidelines (Figure 1).
July 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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