MULTIFUNCTIONALS
Respecting the skin microbiome Consumer interests have grown far beyond the beauty performance of cosmetic products. They have been looking at the individual components with increasing scrutiny. A large swathe of educated consumers has upped their standards and demands regarding ingredient safety and environmental impact. The excellent safety profile of some of the
multifunctionals have long been established. In fact, some, such as 1,2-hexanediol, are specifically recommended for sensitive skin due to their exceptionally mild characteristics. Hydroxyacetophenone is, in addition, a soothing agent. Some of the multifunctional chemistries, such as 1,2-alkanediols, glyceryl caprylate, and 4-hydroxyacetophenone, are also biodegradable, supporting sustainability. A recently emerged concern for consumers’
individual wellbeing has prompted interest in the possible impact of ingredients with antimicrobial performance on the skin microbiome, an understandable question that now seems almost trivial. Establishing balance and harmony between protecting formulations and letting the healthy microbiota of the skin fulfill its function undisturbed is such a high priority that an entire technology platform, SymproBiomeTM
, was recently launched
targeting a deep understanding of these interactions via thorough studies. Combining state of the art methodology,
statistically robust in vivo consumers studies, and gene sequencing techniques, any changes in the composition of the microbiome can now be identified. Several multifunctionals have already been conclusively evaluated and the results are resoundingly affirmative in support of maintaining the healthy microbiome, proving that effective product protection can also be microbiome friendly. The results (Figure 5) show only a slight
shift of microbiome composition after four weeks from the baseline for both the untreated and treated areas. More importantly, the untreated and treated areas were nearly identical, demonstrating that these multifunctionals have no major impact on the skin microbiome.
Microbiology lab support network Supporting customers with microbiology testing is critical in providing effective solutions for their particular formulations. Part of the philosophy of exceptional and local customer support is the extension of a microbiology lab support network with local support being available in all regions. The labs, present in France, the United
States, Brazil, and Indonesia, are dedicated to work with customers in their development efforts. This Symrise network was established not only for providing testing capabilities but also expertise to be close to the customers and offer these services locally. The goal of the effort is to support customers in developing successful products.
Online support The same notion of supporting customers for maximum success is not just limited to lab
www.personalcaremagazine.com B
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Untreated 0.2% Ethylhexylglycerin 0.5% Hydroxyacetophenone 0.8% Caprylyl glycol/1,2- 0.5% Hydroxyacetophenone
Hexanediol Tropolone +
1% 1,2-Heptanediol 0.5% Hydroxyacetophenone A
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Untreated 2% Pentylene glycol 0.5% Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5% Pentylene glycol 0.5% Hydroxyacetophenone 1% 1,2-Heptanediol 0.5% Hydroxyacetophenone
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Figure 5: No impact of the studied multifunctionals on skin microbiome
services. Formulators are encouraged to make the right choice regarding product protection based on sound knowledge and understanding of the broad spectrum of available ingredients, their applications, and benefits. The tremendous potential of
multifunctionals is a proven fact and this confidence and knowledge is to be shared. A dynamic online database (‘Hogo’) of various product protection systems alongside their challenge test data allows the identification of the best combinations of multifunctionals and/ or preservatives for any type of formulation. More than just recommending product
applications, our philosophy is to truly engage and educate formulators who are looking to expand their knowledge about the possibilities within the realm of using multifunctional ingredients. The cosmetic world has outgrown the old-fashioned approach of protecting formulations by adding a smidgen of the same preservative to everything. At the same time, a growing demand
of minimalism and sustainability has been calling for smart formulations with modern ingredients. The palette of cosmetic ingredients has swelled to a dizzying array
of options, while at the same time consumer expectations and scrutiny have become more diverse. Today’s formulators, product development
scientists, and even marketing specialists need to be familiar with a larger and more complex set of topics than their predecessors did. A platform is being launched consisting of short educational videos that introduce relevant and key topics, breaking down the most important concepts into easy-to-understand snippets.
Conclusions Multifunctional ingredients enhance product protection to ensure the longevity of the quality, safety, and the shelf life of formulations. They can, however, also enhance formulations in many other ways. The multiple benefits of these ingredients are often underestimated and overlooked. Symrise, with its expertise in
multifunctionals, long history of knowhow and passion for supporting formulators in solving challenges and developing world- class products, has been undertaking various initiatives to bring greater understanding of the benefits multifunctionals can offer and allow their applications to their full potential.
PC July 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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