IN PERSON
that using traditionally diced meat didn’t work, so we now use whole chicken thighs and cook them separately to the sauce, portioning the meat and adding it at the last stage. Meat on the bone is more resistant to the temperature changes it goes through and it also allows for consistency and portion control.
What about losing flavour at altitude? Altitude and pressure only really affects the salty and sweet taste buds, and food from the Indian sub-continent doesn’t rely on these as much as Western food. A great steak is only seasoned with salt and pepper but a classic curry uses a plethora of sumptuous flavours and spices.
Do different nationalities have different expectations of Indian cuisine? Today’s traveller has an international and sophisticated palate. The spices we use for a korma or Madras are the same as if it is cooked in London or Delhi, but the intensity of the heat may vary. I try to keep our dishes even-tempered, but having said that, some of the biggest chilli fans I have met have been from the west!
What is your favourite dish on the new menu? Saunf elaichi gosht – a mutton shank cooked in a yoghurt and cashew sauce and flavoured with green cardamom and fennel seed. It’s a white dish, which is unusual and it is rich but subtle, tender and juicy. It has had rave reviews. Another is our version of ras malai, a dessert of cottage cheese-style patties cooked in milk and flavoured with sugar and spices.
What’s your next project? I am working on all inbound menus from our 17 African destinations. It’s exciting as it allows me an insight into local cuisines that have remained unchanged for years, like doro wat alecha, a mild chicken stew with onions and hard-boiled egg eaten with injera (fermented teff flour flat bread).
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