SUSTAINABILITY
In comparison to the placebo and after 28 days of twice daily applications, SH formulated at 3% in an emulsion significantly increased skin hydration by 17.3% (P<0.05) in 90% of the volunteers.
Saving three days for restoring an optimal barrier function The efficacy of SH on recuperation of the barrier function of the skin was determined in vivo by tewametry after a single aggression by successive strippings. The panel included 20 healthy female volunteers, mean age 56±8 years, with a dull complexion and facial skin with a tendency to dryness. Tested at 3% in an emulsion after 21 days of twice daily applications and in comparison to the placebo, SH restored more than 80% of a barrier effect in only 4 days, compared to 7 days for the placebo, i.e. a saving of 3 days and 43% of time (Fig. 5). These results were supported in vitro
as an increase of epidermal differentiation and cell-cell cohesion, observed by immunolabelling on Silabskin RE with a deteriorated barrier function (data not shown).
Complexion radiance restored The capacity of SH to restore complexion radiance in vivo was studied by a blind evaluation conducted by two trained experts on the same panel and in the same conditions as the corneometry study. In comparison to the placebo, SH formulated at 3% in an emulsion significantly improved important parameters involved in the overall determination of complexion radiance (Fig. 6).
Conclusion In order to respond to the two main expectations of the global cosmetics market, Silab investigated the hydrating capacity of néré, a characteristic tree of Burkina Faso, known to resist arid
15 10 5 0
–5
–10 –15
*Significant differences compared to the placebo according to Student’s t-test (P<0.05).
Reflection
Skin grain
Pink colour –10.8* Olive colour State of eye fatigue
Good look effect
Figure 6: Effect of saccharide hydrolysate formulated at 3% on complexion radiance after 28 days of twice daily applications.
54 PERSONAL CARE February 2016 +14.4* +10.6* +10.5* +12.0* Hyaluronic acid
250 200 150 100 50 0
+62% 174* 141
n Silabskin RE +0.10% Nerenyl®
911 x 104 Hyaluronic acid (ng/mL)
*Significant results according to Wilcoxon’s signed rank test with respect to Silabskin RE control (P<0.05). **Significant results according to Student’s t-test with respect to Silabskin RE control (P<0.05).
+27%**
n Silabskin RE +0.25% Nerenyl®
997 x 104
Figure 4: Effect of 0.10% and 0.25% saccharide hydrolysate on the synthesis of key markers of hydration in a model of reconstructed epidermis (Silabskin RE).
Number of days required to reach 80% recuperation of the barrier function
8 6 4 2 0
7 3 days saved 4 43%
of time required to recuperate
a functional skin barrier
Placebo 3% Nerenyl
Figure 5: Effect of saccharide hydrolysate at 3% on the recuperation capacity of the barrier function after a single aggression by successive strippings.
climates. The implementation of a responsible, traced and controlled supply chain has been built around three major aspects: l A commitment with a network of partners including two associations of local harvesters (Pedatloga in Tiébelé and Kankéléfo in Kangala).
l A control of agronomy processes to ensure quality.
l A total traceability from the plot of land to the cosmetic active ingredient.
From this supply, Silab has applied an eco-designed process to develop Nerenyl (INCI name: Saccharine Hydrolysate),
a biomimetic ingredient rich in biosaccharides from néré seeds. Tested on Silabskin RE, Nerenyl stimulates epidermal differentiation and cell cohesion at the same time as activating the synthesis of molecules indispensable for water flows in the epidermis. In vivo, the skin is rehydrated and recovery of an optimal barrier function after aggression is faster. Finally, complexion radiance is restored. These properties make Nerenyl an
excellent response to the needs of today’s women whose skin is dehydrated by their lifestyle. It is therefore recommended in all hydrating face and body care products that are claiming natural ingredients of controlled origin.
References 1 Ethicity 2013. Les Français et la consommation responsable 2013: la prise de conscience.
2 Verkman AS. More than just water channels: unexpected cellular roles of aquaporins. J Cell Sci 2005; 118 (15): 3225-32.
–5.0*
3 Robert L. Hyaluronan, a truly ‘youthful’ polysaccharide: Its medical applications. Pathol Biol (Paris) 2015; 63 (1): 32-4.
4 Rawlings AV, Harding CR. Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatol Ther 2004; 17 (Suppl 1): 43-8.
5 Verdier-Sévrain S, Bonté F. Skin hydration: a review on its molecular mechanisms. J Cosmet Dermatol 2007; 6 (2): 75-82.
+16%** 229*
n Silabskin RE Control
788 x 104 Aquaporins 3 Aquaporins 3
PC
Labelling intensity (AU)
Variation/placebo (%)
Time (days)
Percentage
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