FRAGRANCE
to explore. We don’t know how much we need to create an effect. With everything there is an inverted u-curve”.
Buyer behaviour influenced by fragrance Fragrance is one of the most important yet invisible ingredients in our lives. For anyone who might have thought that it is an occasional luxury for the few, insights shared at the annual IFRA UK Fragrance Forum proved otherwise. For it seems that quite a lot of us see the need to buy and adorn ourselves with scent – 19,957,000, to be precise, in the last year. Fragrance is an important part of the UK’s £10.98 billion health and beauty market. KantarWorldPanel’s strategic insight director Tim Nancholas, revealed that, on average, each UK buyer spent £74 on fragrance in the year and between us we purchased over 71 million bottles of scent. Tim Nancholas said: “The most obvious market we associate with fragrance is of course the perfume, fragrance, after-shave, eau de toilette market - products that leave a presence that enhances how you feel and what people may feel about you. Depending on what advertising you believe, it can make us more desirable, feel more confident, more romantic or even more sporty.
“Using a representative continuously reporting panel of 15,000 individuals, we can break through some of the myths surrounding the fragrance market and look at cold, hard facts.”
Despite the fact that some 20 million people bought fragrance, crucially, this is fewer buyers than the year before and Mr Nancholas looked at why this is the case and what can be done about it. 10 million people never use fragrance. He said that just under half of fine fragrances (48%) are purchased by men – 80% of these as
Members of the IFRA UK Fragrance Forum sniff gin botanicals.
gifts in four weeks leading to Christmas.” On average we spend £80 p.a. on fine fragrance and the number purchasing has reduced 3-4%. While unisex fragrance is ‘doing ok’, women’s perfume is doing less well largely because a sizeable proportion of women are not using fragrance. “In 5 years we’ve lost 10 million spray occasions,” said Tim Nancholas. “Paco Rabanne has been the biggest selling brand (in volume) over the last year and we will look at the top male and female brands. Where we buy, what we buy and who buys (and for what reason) will also help as understand shopping habits in this particular category in Great Britain.” Fragrance does, of course, go beyond beauty products. Laundry and household products also use fragrance as a key differentiator between one product and another. “We have seen, for example, fabric conditioners and detergents major on fragrance to entice us into their brands,” he said.
Finally, air care products, or air fresheners, have also gone through change in the last few years, particularly methods of scent delivery the scent to make our homes inviting or cover up the odour of our pets or other unwelcome smells. Reeds is the strongest single growth sector.
The fragranced air care sector is a £370 million market and therefore important to retailers. On average we spend £22.22 each on air freshener products each year. He revealed the top 20 scents including the number one fragrance in this sector being Crisp Linen; number 2 is Cotton Fresh; while Fresh Linen lurks at number 16, and just outside the top 20 (at 21) comes Cool Linen. He concluded by saying that we fragrance ourselves less and our homes and laundry more. “We need to reinvigorate the market and in particular get more men to gift fragrance. Fragrance can add value to brands. It is a huge driver of shopper behaviour.”
Dr Mark Moss, Prof Jonathan Reinarz and Dr Alex Rhys-Taylor share a lighter moment. 20 PERSONAL CARE February 2016
Conclusion The Fragrance Forum was an excellent opportunity to hear from a wide variety of experts about how fragrance has changed the past and can potentially shape the future. From the perspective of the personal care industry, the presentation from Dr Mark Moss was of particular interest and it will be fascinating to see further developments on rosemary’s influence on memory. Fragrance can sometimes be overlooked in many areas of life, but its evocative power is unmatched by the other senses. There is a close relationship between fragrance and skin care products, but as we learned at the Fragrance Forum 2015, its impact can be much deeper and far reaching than many first think, influencing the very fabric of our societies.
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