HAIR STYLING
l Similar hold performance to PVP K-90 with exceptional gel clarity and robust carbomer compatibility (there are no perceptible differences in gel texture or rheology).
l Improved stiffness compared to the low molecular weight maltodextrin/VP copolymer.
l Attractive cost in use.
The maltodextrin/VP copolymer is designed especially for use in such products as clear hair gels, mousses, creams, waxes, and other styling aids. Partially derived from renewable resources, maltodextrin/VP copolymer is formed by the reaction of vinyl pyrrolidone (NVP) and maltodextrin, a natural and renewable homopolymer of glucose. This proprietary, patent pending hybrid polymer offers the exceptional clarity and consumer-preferred rheology typically associated with synthetic fixative polymers. Maltodextrin/VP copolymer gives formulators the best of both worlds. This hybrid works well because formulators get performance similar to an all-synthetic material, including the crystal clarity that many consumers want and look for, while developing more sustainable and renewable styling aids. Supplied as a ~25% active solution
in water, maltodextrin/VP copolymer is a preserved liquid. The preservative is phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin. The polymer is nonionic and compatible
with rheology modifiers such as carbomer and most common styling ingredients, enabling wide formulation versatility. It can be formulated from 1% to 9% active in hair styling gels and 1% to 6% active in other styling applications. As a liquid, it also reduces mixing time at the production scale.
Clear gel properties and performance In a comparison of gel properties, Table 1 shows that clarity and viscosity of gels formulated with maltodextrin/VP copolymer have robust compatibility with carbomer and form crystal clear gels with high viscosity and excellent stability. This comparison shows that crystal clear styling gels, as indicated by the low turbidity values, can be formulated using the maltodextrin/ VP copolymers without compromising viscosity or overall performance. Gels featuring the maltodextrin/VP copolymers using carbomer as the rheology modifier can be formulated using aminomethyl propanol (AMP) or triethanolamine (TEA) neutralisation. In addition, other rheology modifiers may be used with maltodextrin/VP copolymers to tailor the formulators’ desired texture and properties.
38 PERSONAL CARE February 2016
.060 .050 .040 .030 .020 .010 .000
3.0 5.0 7.0 Active polymer (%) Figure 2: Swatch stiffness comparisons of varying matodextrin/VP copolymer levels. AkzoNobel conducted several tests to
validate maltodextrin/VP copolymer and prove its efficacy in high humidity retention. The testing was done with basic aqueous hair gel formulas (pH 6.0-6.5) containing 3% active polymer, 0.3% carbomer (neutralised with aminomethyl propanol), and preserved using phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin. Figure 1 shows high humidity gel curl
retention. Test conditions were 90% relative humidity (RH) and 21˚C. The results, per the graph, show there were no statistically significant differences detected in humidity resistance when comparing gels containing maltodextrin/VP copolymer, PVP K-90, or PVP/VA polymers after 3 hours. In these tests, using a basic hair gel, maltodextrin/VP copolymer performed as well as commonly used synthetic polymers. Another aspect of hold performance is
stiffness. Figure 2 shows swatch stiffness comparisons of varying maltodextrin/VP copolymer levels. The swatch stiffness
18 15 12 9 6 3 0
Maltodextrin/VP copolymer PVP/VA Figure 3: Volume enhancement (22˚C, 50% RH).
evaluations were performed in a three- point bending method using a Diastron mini tensile tester. The evaluations show that increasing levels of maltodextrin/VP copolymer, up to 9% active polymer, result in a statistically significant boost in stiffness.
Volume evaluation One of the most sought after characteristics in European hair styling products is the ability to build volume. AkzoNobel evaluated the on-hair volume- building properties of maltodextrin/VP copolymer vs. the synthetics PVP/VA and PVP K-90 polymer controls. Researchers used the shadow method, whereby swatch width is measured by way of the shadow it creates when a light is shined through it. The test was performed with 20-gram, 8.5-inch virgin European ultra-fine hair swatches. Nine swatches per sample were evaluated. First each swatch was wetted and then blow-dried. Measurements were taken of the
Basic polymer system: 3% polymer, aqueous solutions
9.0
PVP K-90
Hair width change (%)
Work (Joules)
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