HAIR STYLING
shadows of each swatch as a benchmark. The process was then repeated, this time with the styling product applied. Post- application measurements were taken. The volumisation is characterised by the increase in swatch width. As Figure 3 shows, the maltodextrin/VP copolymer built nearly three times more volume than the PVP/VA and PVP K-90 polymers. It generated a 17% increase in hair width versus about 6% for PVP/VA and no change at all for PVP K-90.
Subjective properties To prove on-hair performance, and more specifically to compare the performance of maltodextrin/VP copolymer with that of PVP K-90 in hair gel formulations, AkzoNobel organised subjective evaluations on hair tresses. The evaluations were conducted by trained panellists. As Table 2 shows, there were no statistical differences reported in any of the subjective properties: gloss, stiffness, dry comb, flaking and on-hair feel. As noted above, additional performance testing showed no statistically significant differences in high humidity curl retention compared to PVP K-90 and PVP/VA copolymer, as measured after 3 hours at 90% relative humidity and 21˚C conditions.
Mousse properties The maltodextrin/VP copolymer is clear and compatible with cationic polymers, such as polyquaternium-4 (Celquat L-200), and is a more affordable choice for high-performance mousse systems. The results of tests investigating blends of maltodextrin/VP copolymer and polyquaternium-4 polymers compared to a polyquaternium-4 polymer control, Table 3, indicated that: l 25% of the polyquaternium-4 polymer
100 80 60 40 20
Basic mousse: 2% active polymer, 6% VOC systems
0 0 4 8 12 Time (hours) Figure 4: High humidity mousse curl retention. (21˚C, 90% RH). 16 20 24
l 100% Polyquaternium-4 polymer l 75% Polyquaternium-4/25% Maltodextrin/VP copolymer l 50% Polyquaternium-4/50% Maltodextrin/VP copolymer
could be replaced with maltodextrin/VP copolymer without any significant performance differences in wet properties (wet combing, wet feel) or dry on-hair properties (gloss, stiffness, dry combing, flaking, anti- static or dry feel).
l 50% of the polyquaternium-4 polymer could also be replaced with maltodextrin/VP copolymer without any significant performance differences in wet properties (wet combing, wet feel).
Step by step to perfectly even skin tone
EFFECT ON MELANIN CO TS
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NTENT
February 2016 PERSONAL CARE
39
Curl retention (%)
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