ANTI-AGEING


Table 2: Genes up-regulated by Corsican or Balkan Helychrysum italicum essential oils. Gene


Gene regulation vs. control Cellular/skin function Corsican


Balkan Loricrin Involucrin +400% +600%


+200% Predominant protein (80%) of the cornified envelope (stratum corneum)/skin barrier


–


Important component of the cornified envelope (stratum corneum)/skin barrier


Late cornified envelope family +200%-500% +200%-500% Components of the cornified LCE1A LCE2C LCE2D LCE3D LCE3F LCE3E


– –


+200% –


+500% +500%


S100-protein family S100A2 S100A7 S100A8 S100A9 S100A14


Small proline-rich protein SPPR1A SPRR1B SPPR2A SPRR2B SPRR4 Sciellin


Laminin β3


+200% +500% +200% +200% – –


+300%-1000% +250% +500% +1000% +500% +800% +300%


–


+250% – – –


+400% +200%-350% +400% +400% – –


+300% –


+400% +400% +300%


layer anchoring to the dermis, thus allowing a correct basal keratinocytes polarisation which is the basis for epidermal tissue formation and homeostasis.


The fact that both Corsican and Balkan oils induce families of genes implicated in the terminal differentiation complex suggests that the components responsible for this activity are common to both extracts. Corsican essential oil seems even more active on these identical targets, suggesting that the active compounds might be more concentrated in the Corsican essential oil than in the balkan one. Among the 14 compounds identified in the essential oils, 8 are at least 2-fold more concentrated in the Corsican essential oil.


No scientific experiments have been performed in order to confirm this ancestral observation. Nerol and italidiones are anti-inflammatory molecules.7


The most abundant compound in Helichrysum italicum essential oil is neryl acetate which has been associated with helichrysum essential oil microvascular activity.6


Geraniol


attenuates 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13- acetate (TPA)-induced oxidative stress and inflammation in mouse skin, with a


+300% +350% –


+200% –


Component of the dermo- epidermal junction/skin structure


possible role of p38 MAP Kinase and NF-κB.7


But none of the essential oil


components have yet been associated with a cellular differentiation process or skin barrier formation.


It will be of great interest to individually test these molecules in order to better understand Helichrysum italicum essential oil activity and the discrepancies observed between the two origins of this plant.


Conclusion We have shown variations in the composition of the two essential oils by gas chromatographic analysis. This variation in the composition can explain their different efficacies. Indeed, we have demonstrated that some genes of EDC cluster (cornified envelope formation, wound healing, cutaneous homeostasis, cellular protection) are more upregulated by the Corsican essential oil than by the Balkan one.


Given the ability of Helichrysum italicum essential oil to promote skin barrier and epidermal differentiation, this study demonstrates that the Corsican essential oil could be more efficient than the Balkan one. The higher concentration in


9 8 5


envelope (stratum corneum)/ skin barrier


3


References 1


2


Robert F, Bebin K, Garrau JM et al. Evaluation and correction of oxidative stress in post-weaning piglet [in French]. Journ Rech Porcine 2009; 41: 173-8.


Marenholz I, Volz A, Ziegler A et al. Genetic analysis of the epidermal differentiation complex (EDC) on human chromosome 1q21: chromosomal orientation, new markers, and a 6-Mb YAC contig. Genomics 1996; 37 (3): 295-302.


Steinert PM, Candi E, Kartasova T, Marekov L. Small proline-rich proteins are cross-bridging proteins in the cornified cell envelopes of stratified squamous epithelia. J Struct Biol 1998; 122 (1-2):76-85.


4


Antunes Viegas D, Palmeira-de-Oliveira A, Salgueiro L, Martinez-de-Oliveira J, Palmeira-de- Oliveira R. Helichrysum italicum: from traditional use to scientific data. J Ethnopharmacol 2014; 151 (1): 54-65.


Melito S, Sias A, Petretto GL, Chessa M, Pintore G, Porceddu A. Genetic and metabolite diversity of Sardinian populations of Helichrysum italicum. PLoS One 2013; 8 (11): e79043.


6 Combalot M. Thesis: The Everlasting Italy (Helichrysum italicum) and its essential oil [in French]. 20 June 2013.


7


Khan AQ, Khan R, Qamar W et al. Geraniol attenuates 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13- acetate (TPA)-induced oxidative stress and inflammation in mouse skin: possible role of p38 MAP Kinase and NF-κB. Exp Mol Pathol 2013; 94 (3): 419-29.


Bakkali F, Averbeck S, Averbeck D, Zhiri A, Idaomar M. Cytotoxicity and gene induction by some essential oils in the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Mutat Res 2005; 585 (1-2): 1-13.


Bauer J, Koeberle A, Dehm F et al. Arzanol, a prenylated heterodimeric phloroglucinyl pyrone, inhibits eicosanoid biosynthesis and exhibits anti-inflammatory efficacy in vivo. Biochem Pharmacol 2011; 81 (2): 259-68.


10 Bosset S, Bonnet-Duquennoy M, Barré P. Photoageing shows histological features of chronic skin inflammation without clinical and molecular abnormalities. Br J Dermatol 2003; 149 (4): 826-35.


11 Farage MA, Miller KW, Elsner P, Maibach HI. Functional and physiological characteristics of the aging skin. Aging Clin Exp Res 2008; 20 (3): 195-200.


12 Grove GL, Kligman AM. Age-associated changes in human epidermal cell renewal. J Gerontol 1983; 38 (2): 137-42.


13 Lovell CR, Smolenski KA, Duance VC, Light ND, Young S, Dyson M. Type I and III collagen content and fibre distribution in normal human skin during ageing. Br J Dermatol 1987; 117 (4): 419-28.


14 Roupe G. Skin of the aging human being. Lakartidningen 2001; 98 (10): 1091-5.


February 2016 PERSONAL CARE 25


neryl acetate in the Corsican essential oil might be in part responsible for this discrepancy.


PC


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