MEN’S GROOMING
used in rinse-off products. AquaCacteen is available in two versions: AquaCacteen standard version and AquaCacteen nc (preservative-free version) which is Ecocert certified and contains 96.5% of ingredients from organic farming. The origin, quality and concentration of cactus extract are exactly the same in both versions. AquaCacteen was shown in a series of
in vitro and in vivo studies to be a very efficient soothing factor. A study carried out on men clearly proved its efficacy to reduce skin irritation after wet shaving. As its name suggests, AquaCacteen also has excellent moistursing properties. Thus, besides soothing, it provides long-lasting moisture when applied in after-shave products.
Birch Sap from Sederma is an ideal and natural source of minerals, oligo-elements and sugar which provides skin with tonicity, firmness and moisture. Birch Sap is raw sap from birch sapwood, providing skin toning and moisturising properties. It is water soluble and recommended for use at 3% and incorporated at a temperature below 40˚C and is recommended for application in energising skin and hair care products, and is particularly suited for mens’ grooming products. Taking skin care to a next level is Sensfeel from Provital, which is an active designed to enhance a man’s appeal by increasing the synthesis of his own pheromones. Pheromones are produced by the human body and are undetectable at a conscious level but create unconscious responses in other people.
The pheromone that is indicated to have an influence on human sexual attractiveness is androstadienone. The production and secretion of pheromones are natural processes regulated by hormones and stimuli from nervous system, which arrive to cells of apocrine glands and sebocytes of sebaceous glands.
Provital’s Sensfeel ingredient works to
modulate the pheromone production by the synergistic action of its components: l Forskolin – Diterpene obtained from Makandi root (Coleus forskohlii), which increases the expression of the enzyme 3b-HSD to produce more androstadienone
l Theaflavins – Polyphenols obtained from Black tea leaves (Camellia sinensis) which reduce 5a-reductase activity to decrease androstadienone metabolisation and cause its accumulation.
Men are now looking beyond shaving products.
The creation of a suitable cellular model able to produce pheromones was necessary to evaluate the product’s in vitro efficacy. Progenitor keratinocytes, which can differentiate to sebocytes under certain conditions, were selected. Originated sebocytes were identified, characterised and they showed their ability to produce pheromones, especially androstadienone. The complementary actions of forskolin and theaflavins lead to a boosting synergistic effect. Sensfeel doubles the production of androstadienone (105%) at a concentration of 1.2%.
The amount of pheromone increases in parallel with the concentration of Sensfeel, reaching three times the control result at the maximum dosage (5%).
The ingredient is recommended in men’s care (after-shave), daily cosmetic products (deodorant, shower gel) and body milks and lotions.
Hair loss Fuji Mulberry Root Extract from Fuji-Sangyo Co is a natural ingredient extracted from a mulberry’s root bark through patented technology. Mulberry trees are native to the Americas and Asia, and their fruit has been used to eat as well as to make wines and teas. They are most widely known for cultivating silk worms but as well as having edible fruit, the bark of mulberries contains a large amount of resveratrol, and the leaves are used to make nutritional supplements. In Chinese medicine, mulberry has been used to treat hypertension, fatigue, and it has also been used for skin whitening.
Our hair normally has its own growth cycle. The first is the Growing Period (2-7 years) in which each hair matrix repeats its cell division over and over until our hair grows long enough. Second is the Recess Period (3 weeks) in which our hair stops growing. Finally, the Halting Period (3 months) in which our hair naturally comes off. When someone suffers from alopecia, their hair growth cycle fails to repeat itself properly due to a variety of reasons.
Opuntia ficus-indica. 28 PERSONAL CARE February 2016
As a result, the individual will have a shorter Growing Period and longer Halting
Period, resulting in more hair loss. In order to improve this symptom, it is important to get the hair growth cycle back to normal. Fuji-Sangyo has paid particular attention to the hair cycle which we naturally have, and then applied this extract to the alopecia symptom as a moisturising ingredient. Based on sprouts of organic pea, AnaGain also from Mibelle reduces hair loss by inducing dermal papilla cells to reactivate hair growth. Hair loss affects both women and men. It is caused by an imbalance of the hair growth cycle leading to a reduced number of growing (anagen) hair combined with an increased number of degenerating (telogen) ones. AnaGain was shown, thanks to DNA microarray analysis of plucked hair follicles, to activate, in the dermal papilla, specific signal molecules which are required to initiate the growth of a new hair. A clinical study conducted for three months on volunteers with mild to moderate hair loss showed the capacity of AnaGain to reduce hair loss. Firstly, the density of anagen hair was increased by about 8% and the density of telogen hair was reduced by more than 28%. As a consequence, AnaGain increased the hair growth coefficient (proportion of active hair follicles) from 4 to 7.2 indicating a strong hair-regrowing effect. By reactivating hair growth, AnaGain helps the hairs to keep their original density and thickness.
Conclusion
Men’s grooming products have developed a great deal in recent years, and ingredient manufacturers are responding to the increased interest men are taking in their day-to-day grooming rituals. Men’s skin does differ in certain ways to women’s, especially in terms of thickness, but men are more reluctant now to rely on thick skin and good genes to combat the signs of ageing and start using a range of creams to continue looking youthful.
Skin care for men is now more than just moisturising shaving products, as men take a global approach to skin care regimes. We look forward to seeing more products at the upcoming shows around the world and will report back.
PC
JM Garg
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