ANTI-AGEING
The composition of the Corsican oil is dominated by neryl acetate (32.80%), while the Balkan one features α-pinene (18.80%) and β-caryophyllene (5.20%) (Table 1) and the relative abundance of the corresponding constituents is significantly different according to the origin as for neryl acetate (2-fold in Corsican vs. Balkan), α-pinene and β-caryophyllene (9- and 3-fold respectively in Balkan vs. Corsican).
Epidermal differentiation complex (EDC) cluster: Up-regulated genes Human skin explants obtained from face lifting surgery of a Caucasian woman (42 years old), were processed less than 48 hours after the operation. Skin explants were incubated in the presence, or the absence, of 0.001% (v:v) of Corsican or Balkan Helichrysum italicum oil in the culture medium for a period of 24 hours. Analysis of gene expression was performed using Affymetrix cDNA array which simultaneously measures the levels of 25,000 genes. Skin gene regulation versus the non-
treated control skin were compared between the two Helichrysum italicum and revealed that in both cases, differentially regulated genes are mainly involved in skin barrier function. As shown in Table 2, 7 multigene families or single genes were up-regulated by the Helichrysum italicum Corsican essential oil compared to 5 multigene families or single genes with the Balkan one. All these genes are located in the cluster of the epidermal differentiation complex (EDC) except laminin β3 that is a component of the dermo-epidermal junction. These genes, mainly related to skin
barrier and cohesion show higher expression in Corsican-treated skin than in Balkan-treated skin. S100 multigene family was found to
be the most upregulated (300%-1000% expression level for Corsican and 250% for Balkan). S100 proteins are a group of small acidic proteins of 10–12 kDa. With more than 25 proteins identified at present, they form the largest family of calcium binding proteins. Fourteen S100 protein genes are located within the EDC. S100 proteins have function in membrane remodelling. They play a role in the remodelling that occurs during keratinocyte differentiation – especially in reorganising the keratinocyte surface. S100 proteins are also efficient transglutaminase 1 substrates. This transglutaminase- dependent covalent protein modification results in S100 protein incorporation into the cornified envelope which protects against bacterial infection. As shown in Table 2, the expression
level of small proline-rich protein (SPRR) family genes was increased by 400% for
24 PERSONAL CARE February 2016 716,408 9 Corsican
8 1 2 –17,312 716,408
s Left
4978 1 Min 3 6 4 5 7 10 11 12 15 Right
69,002 s
Balkan 8 9 3 –17,312
s Left
Figure 1: GC-FID chromatogram of the essential oils of Helichrysum italicum.
Corsican and 200%-350% for Balkan essential oil. The SPRR gene family is regulated during epidermal differentiation. SPRRs are specifically known as stress- inducible proteins involved in the adaptation of the skin barrier following various forms of stress. Late cornified envelope family genes
showed an increase of 200%-500% with Corsican essential oil and Balkan essential oil. The late cornified envelope proteins are cornified envelope precursors that have protein crosslinking functions similar to SPRR.
Sciellin was up-regulated by 400%
(Corsican) and 200% (Balkan). Sciellin is cross-linked by transglutaminase 1 to form the cornified envelope. Results showed an upregulation of
involucrin by 600% only for Corsican essential oil and an increase of loricrin by 400% with Corsican essential oil compared to 200% with Balkan essential oil.
Involucrin is a common component of cornified envelope and provides a scaffold to which SPRR-family proteins subsequently become cross-linked. Involucrin is adjacent to the cell membrane and form the exterior surface of the stratum corneum. Loricrin represents 80% of total proteins in the cornified envelope. Additionally, loricrin functions as a main reinforcement protein for the cornified envelope and is deposited onto a scaffold of involucrin and S100- family proteins. Loricrin, involucrin, sciellin, SPRR, LCE
and S100 proteins are important for skin barrier formation and integrity and are also considered as markers of terminal keratinocyte differentiation. Laminin β3 was increased (+300%)
only by Corsican oil. Laminin β3 has a particularly important role in the basement membrane that attaches the top layer of skin (the epidermis) with the dermis. It is of most importance for the basal epidermal
Table 1: Chemical composition of the essential oils of Helichrysum italicum from Corsica and Balkan.
No 1
2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 11 12 13 15
Tr (min)* 8.50
10.98 14.60 14.99 30.68 33.30 36.30 41.80 43.77 46.08 46.95 47.22 51.94 63.21
Compound α−pinene
β-pinene Limonene 1,8-cineole α-cedrene
Linalol + italicenes β-caryophyllene γ-curcumene Neryl acetate α-curcumene
Neryl propionate Nerol
Italidiones 1 and 2 β-eudesmol
Corsica (%) 2.02
0.68 4.83 0.82 0.63 4.29 1.57
12.31 32.80 2.59 4.66 2.01
10.34 3.57
*Retention time (min) of corresponding constituent obtained by GC-FID, Percentage = relative abundance.
Balkan (%) 18.80
0.38 2.27 0.43 1.07 4.79 5.20
16.61 14.10 3.07 1.36 1.22 7.08 0.10
6 10 13 Right s 13
14
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