MEN’S GROOMING The Floraesters3 range of jojoba esters
from Floratech provide the perfect attributes to control the sensory aesthetics and allow added playtime. This is due to the Floraesters ingredients having very small melting point windows, while imparting the light and unique characteristic texture of jojoba. We can create very specific combinations of different melting point Floraesters grades to manipulate spread between the fingers, during application, and how fast and hard these waxy esters set-up on the moustache. Due to the very narrow melting point windows, the results are completely reproducible. In terms of the wax required for hard and lasting hold, Kester Wax K82-P4
from
Koster Keunen is an ideal option. It is synthetic beeswax and was designed to mimic the complex polyester fraction of beeswax. This is the part of beeswax responsible for providing its plastic attributes. K82-P contains a range of hydroxyl polyesters with lengths between 56-72 carbon atoms. The film-forming and plasticity imparted
by K82-P makes it a perfect candidate for beard and moustache styling. It effectively takes the ideal styling and holding power of beeswax but in a format that is easier to work with than conventional beeswax. Despite being inherently a very hard wax, Kester Wax K82-P provides added playtime due to its unique plasticising properties. In fact, as a result of the plasticising attributes, higher quantities of other hard waxes can be included in the formulation. A potential formulation for a modern
and high performance moustache wax would consist of approximately 50% Kester
can be a tendency to reach for aggressive cleansers in order to remove residue and restore a clean feeling. This will inevitably disrupt the skin’s natural oil balance and exacerbate dryness, irritation and itchiness. Exfoliation can be the key. Rather than
Sweet almond has a long tradition for use in beard oil.
Wax K82-P, 20%-30% mixed Floraesters (carefully balanced to get the desired playtime and texture) and 20%-30% of a supportive hard wax such as beeswax. For formulations with higher wax content, space should be left for 1%-5% oil (perhaps olive, sweet almond) to add further emolliency and playtime to counter over-hardness. We would expect the above formulation
basis to style even the most ‘curled and twirled’ moustache, with very long-lasting high performance.
Tip for beards and moustaches: exfoliation In terms of a cleansing regime for beards and moustaches, the general rule should be to try not to disrupt the skin’s natural oils by avoiding aggressive cleansers. Due to the use of high wax-content styling products and rich beard oils, there
using aggressive cleansers, our recommendation would be to use milder cleansers that contain exfoliating scrub particles. This mechanical cleansing action will help lift away dirt and any residual product from facial hair while also gently exfoliating the uppermost layers of dead skin cells, which can contribute to irritation, redness and discomfort. Once rinsed away, the beard/moustache and indeed skin beneath will feel soft and cleansed and will be ready to be further groomed and styled. With microplastic beads under ever-
increasing scrutiny, waxy beads offer good alternatives (jojoba, rice bran, synthetic wax beads are all readily available). In fact one major benefit of using wax beads in such an exfoliating product is the option of manipulating the melting point, so that during the exfoliation process, the wax beads may actually melt with the rubbing action. Following exfoliation with a highly
softening and conditioning oil is the perfect option for facial hair and the skin beneath it.
PC
References 1 Oat Lipid e:
www.oatcosmetics.com/ingredients- formulations/oat-lipid-oat-oil
2 Kahai oil:
www.kahai.co 3 Floraesters:
www.floratech.com/Uploads/pdfs/ 2006_floraesters_brochure.pdf
4 Kester Wax K82P:
www.tinyurl.com/z9ln5ts
February 2016 PERSONAL CARE
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