IN-COSMETICS QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS Karl Lintner speaks to Personal Care
Karl Lintner is one of the most respected and influential consultants working in personal care today, having worked with companies such as Henkel and Sederma (with whom he was instrumental in the development of Matrixyl). At in-cosmetics 2016 in Paris, Karl will be speaking on the topic of ‘Sun care and anti-age ingredients and claims’, as well as introducing sessions on preservatives, skin flora, parabens and how to preserve formulations for sensitive skin.
PC: Sun care and anti-ageing products have been slowly merging for some time now; there are obvious complementary areas, but do you see any problems with the way sun care claims are marketed in anti-ageing products? KL: Indeed, we see products that are clearly positioned as skin care (face care) products with anti-age (both curative AND preventive) claims that may contain UV protection up to SPF 20. And we see products clearly positioned for the beach and the slopes, but also containing and claiming ‘anti-age’ activity. And any protection of the skin against UVA is good. However, the packaging and the advertisements still allow the consumer to see the different purposes. I see no problem in having SPF 10 or 20 in a face care product, especially when it also contains material to give UVA protection, which in our daily lives (away from the beach) is even more important than UVB protection; even on a cloudy day we receive UVA (100 MED over a year).
PC: What is your opinion on the addition of anti-inflammatory excipients to enhance SPF claims? KL: It all depends on the intent and the degree! Including efficacious amounts of anti-inflammatory actives in order to ‘boost’ SPF values (by decreasing the visibility of the redness by which SPF is measured) is not a good idea! It would lead the consumer to think (s)he is better protected than (s)he really is.
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However, having determined a true SPF for the base cream and then adding an A-I ingredient to reduce the noxious effects of free radicals, of inflammatory symptoms (MMP, vasodilatation) is OK. One should not ‘cheat’ with SPF and UVA/IR protection.
PC: Is there anything formulators or manufacturers can do to encourage consumers to apply sun care products adequately? KL: Prevention is hard to sell (compared to treatment), it takes a lot of effort to teach and inform consumers. Body hygiene and especially oral care has succeeded in getting the message to the
shifting from the purely biological and often too sophisticated (‘treatment’ or protection/prevention) activity and terminology to the more hedonist, pleasure oriented and wellbeing claims. We have heard it before: age well rather than hoping to stop ageing. The difference is that now we can measure and document the improvement in wellbeing, based both on specific ingredients and the sensorial pleasure derived from these new products.
PC: Could you give a brief overview of the sessions you will be covering at in-cosmetics Paris? KL: We have planned two workshops, one on sun care and one on preservation.
The sun care programme will address the topics of protection against the newly recognised potential damages coming from HEV (high energy violet) and IR (Infrared) radiation, both from a practical and a more theoretical viewpoint (both R and D). We will look at the connection between UV protection and vitamin D production vs. deficiency and the importance of vitamin D for the skin. The consequences of the ZnO registration for formulation will be discussed and a review of anti-age ingredients for sun care products will close the session. The workshop on preservation contains a presentation on how to formulate well preserved products keeping in mind the requirements of sensitive skins, using novel experimental approaches; some novel
public, and dental health has improved. Even the sun care message has made progress in the last 30 years; compliance and how best to use these products needs still further improvement: better skin feel (aesthetics) of the formulations will continue to be a research topic for formulators, new galenic forms (sprays, mousse, fun stuff) and continued information easy to grasp will help.
PC: Where do you see the next source of anti-ageing innovation being found? KL: As I presented in my talk at the Annual conference of the SCC-US in December, the anti-age claims are
alternatives to classical preservatives will be discussed, in particular the synergies between certain acids and surfactants, as well as the use of a metal oxide; the relatively new question of “how do preservatives influence the skin’s natural microbiome?” (a hot topic) will be addressed, I think, for the first time.
PC: What type of products will you be looking for among the exhibitors at the show? KL: I’ll be interested to see how the idea of increased interest in sensoriality (often talked about, seldom quantified) is progressing.
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