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Tests In the first conducted test a simple water-based hair gel formulation with 10% Kahlemulsion BE830 (INCI: Aqua, Cera Alba, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Polysorbate 80, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbic Acid) was compared to a very popular mass market hair gel formulation from the market. In a half- side study with 20 volunteers performed by a hair dresser the parameters texture, spreadability, tackiness, drying time, formability, washability, and water resistance were compared. The simple hair gel with the wax
emulsion had a perceivable superior spreadability and washability. Also the formability was better and the drying time shorter. The formula with Kahlemulsion does
not stick the hair concrete-like together or form inflexible, hard strands. It gives hold but the natural flexibility of the hair remains. In a second study half-side study conducted by an independent test institute the same simple hair gel formulation but with 10% Kahlemulsion BE850 (INCI: Aqua, Cera Alba, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Sebacate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/Caprate) was compared to the same popular mass-market hair gel. The parameters: volume after hours, manageability, hold in dry hair, wet hair haptics, and wet combability were
Volume after hours Manageability Hold in dry hair Wet hair haptics Wet combability Slight Moderate
Figure 3: Hair gel with 10% Kahlemulsion BE850 compared to a successful mass-market hair gel formula.
compared. The hair gel with the wax emulsion showed superior performance in hold and combability. The grip of wet hair and the volume after hours were better too. Figure 3 shows the rated difference.
Results and conclusion In particular the result of improved wet combability indicates that wax emulsions work in rinse-off hair care products such as conditioners and masks too. They give a formulation a non-stick, natural touch with a rich consistency and a perfect softness. Furthermore thanks to their low viscosity they can be used for cold process as well which is important especially for
Formulation 1: Hair styling cream formulation.
This formulation is designed to give coarse hair a natural shine and moisturisation. It has a rich, creamy rheology with medium hold for accentuation of particular hair sections or longer hair.
Phase A
B
Ingredient Water
D-Panthenol
dermofeel PA-31 Arlacel 1652 Lanette O3
C
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride CremerCOOR DO4 Vitamin F forte5
Kahlemulsion BE8506
INCI (EU) Aqua
Panthenol Sodium Phytate, Aqua, Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate Cetearyl Alcohol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Decyl Oleate
Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid Aqua, Cera Alba, Copernicia Cerifera Cera,
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Sebacate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/Caprate
Tocopherol
NaOH (18% solution) Preservative/ Fragrance
Tocopherol Aqua, Sodium Hydroxide
0.05 0.20 q.s.
Procedure: Blend phase A ingredients and heat to 70˚C. Blend phase B ingredients and heat to 70˚C. Add phase B to phase A under vigorous agitation. Mix until uniform. Cool mixture to 40˚C under mixing. Add phase C ingredients in listed order, adjust pH and mix until uniform.
Suppliers: 1 Dr Straetmans 2 Croda 3 BASF 4 Cremer Oleo 5 CLR 6 KahlWax 34 PERSONAL CARE February 2016 %
ad 100 0.50 0.10 6.00 3.00
20.00 3.00 2.00
10.00
gels or sprayable liquids. If used in hot process, Kahlemulsions are post-added during cooling. They are not sensitive to shear force as they have very small particles. Kahlemulsions have strong hold with outstanding accentuating and remolding properties due to their soft and flexible film forming. The used emulsifier supports formulation
stability and eases washing off. Formulations with Kahlemulsions are non- tacky and get feather light, innovative textures. They are compatible with all typically used hair styling and conditioning ingredients but not combinable with alcohol at concentrations above 5%.
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©Monkey Business/Fotolia
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