HAIR CARE
LR: We have to remember that hair plays an important part in our appearance. Looking great every day to consumers does mean making sure hair is manageable and in great shape. ‘Hairceuticals’ is a great targeted niche for the consumer who requires protection or repair over and above what mass and salon products can provide. For Croda this is about understanding the hair intimately and at a molecular level so we can provide ingredients that target the most damaged parts of the hair and reassure consumers they are working. Taking biomimetics to the next generation, our product Kerestore 2.0 was developed using the most recent advances in proteomics and the amino acid sequences of the peptides found in Kerestore 2.0 match those present in the keratin proteins found in cuticular and cortical regions of human hair. This means that Kerestore 2.0 is a highly substantive conditioning active that provides targeted repair to the most damaged areas of the hair’s surface. Consumers therefore have an option to use products that have ingredients that cleverly target their hair in a way not always possible. We believe this type of innovation can help drive the ‘hairceutical’ niche.
PC: Can you describe the process of developing a new hair ingredient? What is the starting point? LR: It’s not a linear process. We have knowledge right across the business (sales, marketing, technical) and what we try to do with our product development is harness this knowledge and if there are interesting ideas, we evaluate and scope them to see what the possibilities are. This can be an understanding of the long term consumer trends, anticipating consumer needs, seeing an opportunity for scientific advancement or even, building a new claim with existing technology. We then aim to understand the consumer perceivable effects that we are trying to modify or enhance and use existing or new testing techniques to ensure we can quantify these effects. This can be a lengthy process of test method development and screen testing many different control products to ensure we have a robust test method in place. Next we look at the existing products on the market and work out the fundamental chemistry behind the effect. We can then work towards developing new molecules which can enhance these effects and deliver an improved benefit to the consumer.
PC: How important is the sensory aspect of hair care ingredients? LR: In both hair care and skin care we see the importance of the sensory
LR: Although we see format innovation, our data indicates traditional styling such as hold is declining and there has been lots of ‘chatter’ on social media about natural hair and hair movement, that free and easy look – not over-styling.
Where we really see continued change in styling are products that offer ease of use, enhancement to natural style and a long lasting claim. We have already seen a renaissance of healthy shine and vibrancy with new claims and products in the styling category.
Healthy, natural-looking hair is highly desirable.
characteristics of cosmetic products. Our senses all work together to form our overall experience of a product. If any part of this is not to our liking it strongly affects our decision about whether to use the product again. Over the past 3 years we’ve been working to develop our capabilities in both hair and skin sensory evaluation. These areas need specialist skills and a significant amount of effort to train a dedicated panel of assessors. The ability to differentiate between products using the sense of touch alone is a key capability. The sensory panels allow us to identify and develop products which perform well not only instrumentally, but also during in vivo testing. The testimonials from some of the panellists who have tested our products have been extremely positive and describe the product’s performance in a language more understood by consumers that any instrument can offer.
PC: When developing new hair care ingredients, how do you take into account different ethnicities? LR: We conduct single fibre measurements, instrumental tress testing and sensory panel evaluations on regionally relevant hair types. Our labs in America, Europe, Asia, Africa and Latin America also have access to salons who can conduct half head evaluations and salon studies so we can provide our customers with the most meaningful data for their market. It’s not just about hair type, but also about the different needs of different ethnic groups. Each region or ethnic group will react to certain claims in a different way, so not only does the data have to be meaningful; it needs to be packaged in a way that the consumer has a reason to believe.
PC: The hair styling market has seen lots of innovation in recent years, do you see this continuing and in which direction do you see things going (i.e. extreme styling, even more mattifying, return of wet look)?
PC: How do you envisage the hair care market as a whole developing in the next few years? LR: Hair care brands have a challenge. We have empowered consumers who want and need more and they now have higher expectations. Hair care is an extremely competitive market space with a wide variety of products available and there is a limit on really new hair needs. For Croda we anticipate a requirement to fully connect with consumers, continue our approach to meaningful claims and finally, helping our customers’ brands to navigate an increasingly complex proposition.
PC: What is Croda aiming to do to make formulating hair care products easier? LR: Our goal is to offer ingredients that provide perceivable consumer benefits, work across product formats, are cold processable, meet natural sustainable criteria and where possible have full global regulatory approval. What is acknowledged is that it’s not just about meeting consumer benefits but also meeting manufacturer stipulations. We ensure that with the launch of new products, a comprehensive guidance package is also available covering how to use the material in a number of applications. As a formulator, time should be spent developing new and interesting formats and textures, not trying to extract a raw material from a jar or waiting for a product to melt. With this in mind, as part of the development stage we take into account the physical form of the product and try to make this as ‘formulator friendly’ as possible. A recent launch, Crodazoquat MCC, combines the efficacy of two hair conditioning materials into a single, easy to use pastille. This combination allows a high active quat level without the need for volatile solvents which are commonly found in other high active quat materials. As a supplier we understand that formulating is a multi-dimensional undertaking that with our vast experience we are highly equipped to do.
PC February 2016 PERSONAL CARE 43
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