Martina Heldermann – KahlWax, Germany MEN’S GROOMING
Styling wax emulsions for hydrous formulations
Texture
Spreadability Tackiness Drying time Formability Washability
Water resistance –2
Hair waxes need to provide a more natural finish.
While styling waxes are experiencing a growth in popularity, many consumers are looking for a more natural, matte finish to the styled hair. Even with the surge in beard and moustache styling products in the men’s grooming market, a more natural look is preferred, and this look is best achieved using hydrous formulations. Waxes are a class of natural compounds that are formable at room temperature. Typically, they are harder, less greasy, and more brittle than fats, and show extreme resistance to moisture, oxidation, and microbial degradation. Small amounts of wax deposited on
hair boost the performance of hair care and hair styling products. Dependent on their chemical composition, waxes can add gloss, reduce combing force and
–1 0 Performance
Figure 1: Hair gel with 10% Kahlemulsion BE830 compared to a successful mass-market hair gel formula.
detangle, have anti-static properties, or protect the hair against breakage and environmental stress. Most hair conditioners or masks already contain waxy substances such as fatty alcohols but rarely just waxes, as their melting point can be fairly high or their performance is unknown. Waxes are mainly used for thickening oleogels or W/O emulsions but they have a very interesting activity on hair. As they do not attach firmly on the hair, they add softness but are still easy to remove and do not cause build-up. In particular when waxes are used
that are already pre-blended with an emulsifier, the washing off is especially trouble-free. Depending on the used wax type it can also provide slip and lubricity.
Others give more grip which can be necessary for a good manageability especially in preparation for an updo. Used in styling products, most waxes give a strong hold which is still remoldable as they do not form stiff films but flexible layers that cannot break easily.
Consumer need The market requires more and more water-containing styling cream formulations, different from the traditional hair styling waxes and pomades that have been water-free. Besides lower formulation costs they also provide a more natural hold instead of a greasy pomade feel and can be loaded with fillers for a matte appearance. Also chewing gum like textures are popular again, but they should have a decent waxy and creamy feel instead of a super tacky sensation. A possibility when formulating with one
Figure 2: Microscopic images of hair treated with a hair gel with 10% Kahlemulsion BE830 and a popular mass market hair styling gel.
styling active in all different formulation types is a wax emulsion. These emulsions are low viscous, fine particle sized, and have a solid content of 35% to 40% depending on the version. Adding 5% to 10% of a wax emulsion to a styling formulation increases significantly its performance. In two different half-side studies the activity of a beeswax/carnauba wax emulsion was tested on hair.
February 2016 PERSONAL CARE 33 1 2
n 10% BE830 n Max-hold gel
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