SUSTAINABILITY
Hyaluronic acid is the water reservoir of the skin because the main feature of this glycosaminoglycan is to capture and store water in its molecular structure.3
Tested
on an innovative model of reconstructed epidermis (Silabskin®
RE), Nerenyl (SH)
stimulates the synthesis of these two biomarkers that are essential for skin hydration. The cosmetic benefits of SH in vivo were shown in a panel of women carefully chosen according to their age, their complexion radiance and the state of facial skin dryness.
Figure 2: Silab’s local partners.
branches in order to preserve the tree’s ecosystem.
After the operation finishes, harvesters return to the village where they begin the transformation of fruits, starting by drying the pods in the shade of mango trees for several days, followed by manually husking the pods to remove the seeds. The seeds are then crushed and sieved to separate them from the pulp. The pulp is recovered for food needs and the seeds are carefully selected to retain only those with optimal quality. They are then dried in the shade of mango trees for several days to evaporate residual moisture. Finally, the seeds are packaged in bags with precise labels and placed in the village storehouse until sea shipment to France (Fig. 3).
From néré seeds to the biomimetic and hydrating ingredient After a validation of each batch of néré seeds received, Silab uses them in its manufacturing process. The use of a non- denaturing, aqueous phase process based on enzymatic bioengineering has led to the development of Nerenyl®
, a natural, eco-
designed and biomimetic active ingredient, rich in biosaccharides.
The efficacy of this cosmetic active ingredient has been demonstrated in vitro by the study of two key biomarkers of skin hydration: aquaporins and hyaluronic acid. Aquaporins are genuine miniature irrigation canals in the membranes of epidermal cells that optimise the transport of water and solutes through the epidermis.2
Experimental method, results and discussion A skin hydration booster Hydration is essential for maintaining healthy skin4,5
In the concept of skin
hydration it is important to reinforce the presence of hyaluronic acid to capture and retain water, as well as aquaporins to favour water flow through the skin. The effect of this Saccharide Hydrolysate (SH) on the synthesis of these two key biomarkers of hydration was analysed in vitro by immunolabelling and ELISA assay in a model of reconstructed epidermis, Silabskin RE. Tested at 0.25% on Silabskin RE, SH boosts the synthesis of aquaporins 3 by 27% and the secretion of hyaluronic acid by 62% (Fig. 4). The capacity of SH to boost skin hydration was analysed in vivo by corneometry on a panel of 20 healthy female volunteers, mean age 53±8 years, with a dull complexion and facial skin with a tendency to dryness.
Figure 3: Controlled steps, from harvest to packaging. February 2016 PERSONAL CARE 53
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