HAIR STYLING
For the dry on-hair properties, stiffness of the blend was inferior while all other attributes showed no significant performance differences.
In addition, foam characteristics of all mousse systems were similar when maltodextrin/VP copolymer was incorporated.
As Figure 4 shows, no statistically significant differences were detected in humidity resistance at the 24-hour point when comparing maltodextrin/VP copolymer/polyquaternium-4 polymer blends vs. polyquaternium-4 polymer alone. Maltodextrin/VP copolymer delivers high performance in mousse while significantly reducing formula costs and also adding a greener touch to the end products.
Ingredient compatibility Maltodextrin/VP copolymer is compatible with most common formulation ingredients including panthenol, glycerin, silicones, sorbitol, EDTA, GLDA, polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols. In addition to compatibility with
carbomer, maltodextrin/VP copolymer is compatible with such other rheology modifiers as acrylates/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer (Structure®
acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates copolymer (Balance® (AmazeTM
2001),
RCFg) and dehydroxanthan gum XT) polymers.
Blends with other fixative polymers may be achieved to tailor performance properties. Maltodextrin/VP copolymer is compatible with other fixatives including octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Amphomer® sodium polystyrene sulfonate (Flexan®
), II),
polyurethane-14 (and) AMP-acrylates copolymer (Dynamx® 4 (Celquat®
L-200). ) and polyquaternium-
Table 3: Styling/conditioning mousse dry properties. Blends of Maltodextrin/VP copolymer/Polyquaternium-4 polymers vs. Polyquaternium-4 polymer 75% Polyquaternium-4/
Gloss
Stiffness Dry Comb Flake
Anti-stat Feel
25% Maltodextrin/VP NSD
NSD NSD NSD NSD NSD
NSD = No statistical difference detected at the 95% confidence level
Maltodextrin/VP copolymer is compatible with a wide range of preservatives including: phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin; benzyl alcohol (and) ethylhexylglycerin (and) tocopherol; phenethylalcohol (and) ethylhexylglycerin; phenylpropanol (and) propanediol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) tocopherol; phenoxyethanol (and) caprylyl glycol; and DMDM hydantoin (and) iodopropynyl butylcarbamate. Formulation 1 details an extreme hold sustainable styling gel. This clear gel delivers extreme hold performance with a more sustainable fixative polymer partially derived from maltodextrin.
Conclusion
Meeting today’s consumer and formulator demands for more natural hair styling products without compromise on properties, performance or economics will continue to be a challenge, but one that Biostyle XH polymer certainly meets. Evaluations showed that crystal clear styling gels can be formulated with the maltodextrin/VP copolymer without compromising viscosity, rheology or aesthetics.
Formulation 1: Extreme hold sustainable styling gel. Trade Name
INCI name Deionised Water
Biostyle™ XH polymer (25% active)1 AMP-Ultra™ PC 20002 Carbopol®
9803
Sorbitol solution (70%)4 Ritapan-DL5 Dissolvine®
PA 408 NA2-S chelate6
External D&C Violet #2 (1% aq. soln.)7 Sensiva®
pH: 5.5-6.0 Viscosity: 47,000-52,000 cps
Suppliers: 1 AkzoNobel Personal Care 2 Dow Chemical 3 Lubrizol Advanced Materials 4 Lipo Chemicals 5 Rita Corporation 6 AkzoNobel Functional Chemicals 7 Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 8 Schulke & Mayr GmbH
40 PERSONAL CARE February 2016 Water (Aqua)
Maltodextrin/VP copolymer Aminomethyl propanol Carbomer
Sorbitol (and) water Panthenol
Disodium EDTA External D&C Violet #2
Phenylpropanol (and) Propanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Tocopherol
2802-18J W/W (%) 65.00
32.00 0.20 0.30 1.80 0.15 0.04 0.01 0.50
Long-lasting claims are part of the semantics of hair styling products, and consumers are likely to look for products that will hold their hairstyles for longer. More recent launches proposed formulations that ‘remember’ hairstyles and have memory shape, helping to prolong hairstyles. Hair styling products that add volume are likely to remain popular in the future, as many European consumers look to volumising capabilities when making their choices of styling gels, mousses, etc. Further, the share of natural active ingredients in global hair styling products is predicted to grow, as additional research increases the availability and efficiency of these materials.2
Due to its partial natural content, Biostyle XH polymer delivers high performance with an enhanced sustainability profile, and thus a more consumer-friendly INCI label.
Research has shown that Biostyle XH polymer enhances hair volume, increasing hair width nearly three times more than the PVP/VA and PVP K-90 polymers. Its overall hold performance is equivalent to PVP K-90 polymer. It provides similar stiffness and curl retention. In addition, it offers rheology, viscosity and excellent compatibility with carbomer thickeners and most common hair styling ingredients, as PVP K-90 does. It has similar subjective properties as PVP K-90, improved volume build, plus utility in mousse formulations. Finally, the maltodextrin/VP copolymer provides crystal clarity not previously possible with a naturally-derived fixative polymer, giving formulators the ability to create styling solutions with industry-leading performance, a sustainable profile and a gentler ingredient label.
References 1 Mintel Corp., Natural & Organic Personal Care Consumer, December 2013.
2 Mintel Corp., Global New Products Database, December 2013.
50% Polyquaternium-4/ 50% Maltodextrin/VP
NSD
Inferior NSD NSD NSD NSD
PC
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