HAIR CARE
Laura Reilly – Croda, UK Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care Chris Smith – Technical Editor, Personal Care
Q&A: developing innovative technology in hair care
For many people, hair is one of the most important mediums for expressing individuality. Different styles, lengths and colours can be quickly adopted according to mood or occasion, and high quality hair care products are essential for making the process easy and non-detrimental to overall hair health.
In recent years there has been a move towards ‘skin care claims’ for hair care products as consumers become more attuned to the concept of undertaking a nourishing hair care regimen as they would with their skin. To help discover more about the latest technology in this fast-changing market, Personal Care magazine spoke to Laura Reilly, marketing manager at Croda.
PC: How has the hair care market changed in the past 5 years? LR: The hair care market is complicated. Concentrating on Europe, a number of things have happened: Conditioning of hair is one of the most important things to hair care consumers. Where some areas like Russia, Eastern Europe and Northern Africa would have just cleansed their hair, now they are starting to want conditioning products and the growth of this product category has started to overtake the shampoo market.
In countries where conditioning has been around for a long time like France, Germany and the UK, the types of claim, proposition and ingredient innovation we see has become more premiumised and there is a greater diversity in the types of claims seen. The idea that conditioning is key is also apparent as shampoos have followed the innovation and premiumisation so we are seeing products like oil cleansers providing nourishing and revitalising benefits as opposed to the usual standard surfactant systems.
There is lots of innovation in hair care generally with cross-pollination and mimicking from skin care. We’re seeing many new formats like serums, ampoules and masks. We are also seeing innovation in format and packaging from the colour cosmetics side with mascaras for colour
42 PERSONAL CARE February 2016 Different hair types require different approaches.
alteration, sprays, spritzes and powders. The core hair care consumer needs like anti-frizz, reconstruction and strengthening haven’t really changed but we are seeing claims like fluid movement, bounce and anti-pollution becoming new consumer desirable needs.
MNCs dominate the global market and this means that a number of markets are becoming more Europeanised in terms of their offering as consumers learn more about hair care routines.
PC: There seems to be a trend for ‘skin care’ claims now – do you see this developing further? LR: Whether skin or hair claims, it’s really about finding the consumers’ passion for the product and creating an emotional connection. This could be through familiarity, brand loyalty, convenience or the product benefits.
What skin care has presented for hair care is a language to explain traditional benefits in a new and more understandable way – moisturisation is a good example. It is a better explanation of the action taking place on the hair than conditioning – you’re replenishing ‘moisture’ – consumers get that from skin care product use. We think this language will continue to develop further from other sectors such as colour cosmetics.
Brands and suppliers don’t just need to understand what the claim is but how this resonates with the consumer, looking across beauty categories for language, innovation and uniqueness can help
identify consumer connections. Another new example being a craze for facial contouring with makeup that could easily cross over into hair care, helping to change the shape of hair – the same language but applied to a different sector.
PC: The message of anti-ageing for hair care seems to be shifting away from oxidative damage and more towards breakages and split ends. Is this changing how you approach testing, and how do you see this developing? LR: Yes, breakage and split ends is much more consumer perceivable so more ‘real’ to the end consumer. Croda was the first to develop an anti-breakage active, namely Keravis. Designed to deliver optimal anti- breakage benefits, Keravis is a multifaceted protein based complex which acts on all of the three fundamental parameters of hair strength – tensile properties, bending modulus and cuticle abrasion. The unique chemical composition of Keravis enables it to penetrate the hair cuticle, building strength from within, while providing film-forming effects to reinforce, lubricate and protect the surface of the hair. We have made recent advances in our ability to demonstrate the effects of our products are consumer perceivable, new data will be launched next year.
PC: So-called ‘hairceuticals’ are gaining in popularity. Do you see scope for high efficacy hair active ingredients and do you believe test methods can produce powerful data?
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