Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care MEN’S GROOMING
Ingredients focus: men’s grooming products
Men’s grooming has steadily become a more significant area of the industry over the past few years. Several times in the past it has been touted as being the next big thing, but in fact has flattered to deceive. However there are now signs that men are increasingly taking more interest in the products they use, and even more importantly, making the purchase themselves.
As a result, products traditionally targeted at women such as serums and eye creams are now finding their way into men’s bathroom cabinets, opening up whole new markets. Following is an overview of some of the ingredients available on the market that can play a key part in men’s grooming formulations.
Skin care
Questice from Soliance works effectively to give a long-lasting perception of cooling. It is hydrolysed over several hours by skin esterase enzymes to release menthol and create a non-aggressive cooling sensation. Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), a Natural Moisturising Factor is also released and contributes to condition the skin. It offers a slow release of coolant with the added benefit that it can work as a perception trigger for other actives. In terms of cosmetic applications, it is recommended for deodorants and male grooming, including after-shave, refreshing body lotions with a fresh effect, skin care wipes, and any formulation to trigger active ingredient efficacy.
CellActive – MEN from Rahn is an active ingredient complex specially designed for men’s skin to increase performance and resilience. The active ingredient complex comprises the osmo regulator taurine, the adaptogen Siberien ginseng and the Essential Cell BoostFactor. In vivo and in vitro studies confirm higher performance for men’s skin through: l Accelerated regeneration of microcuts during shaving
l Higher resilience in stress situations l A strong moisturising effect after just the first application.
There are now signs that men are increasingly taking more interest in the products they use.
The ingredient has been successfully tested on men’s skin. Taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid) is an endogenic substance that is chemically related to the amino acids. As osmoregulator, taurine is predominantly responsible for the stabilisation and regulation of the water equilibrium in the epidermis. Taurine protects cell membranes and makes the skin more resilient. Siberian ginseng (Eleutherococcus senticosus) is a member of the adaptogen plant family. The phytoactive substances in the root and rhizomes (Rhizoma eleutherococci) contain eleutherosides that contribute to increasing stress resistance and stamina. They stimulate and enhance the resilience of the skin to, for example, heat, cold, toxic substance and to bacterial and viral pathogens.
A highly active bioferment of the green
algae, Chlorella vulgaris, and proteins from white lupins, the Essential Cell Boost-Factor is the vitality cocktail of all CellActive products. As a supplier of essential nutrients, it compensates deficits in the
skin cells. In addition, the formation of cell adhesion proteins in enhanced. This activates the cell migration of keratinocytes and contributes to accelerated regeneration of microcuts caused during shaving.
The ingredient activates the cell migration and contributes to accelerated regeneration of microcuts that typically occur during shaving. Particularly in the initial phase, the regeneration process is more than twice as fast: +146% after two hours.
CellActive-MEN increases the skin moisture with a long-lasting effect. After a single application, the moisture content of the skin is significantly increased and sustained at a high level over a period of 24 hours.
Silab has two actives that are targeted for men’s skin formulations. Rich in purified oligopeptides obtained from chick pea, SMS energy reinforces the bioenergetic potential of the skin and boosts the cell renewal. Tested on male volunteers, it increases skin tone, reduces skin fatigability and improves skin complexion. SMS energy is recommended for energising and anti-fatigue care for men.
A second active from the same range is SMS Anti-wrinkle EL. Rich in oligopeptides purified from Annona squamosa, SMS Anti-wrinkle EL reinforces the dermal matrix and favours epidermis cohesion. Tested on human male volunteers, it improves the biomechanical properties of the skin and reduces wrinkles. SMS Anti-Wrinkle EL is recommended for men specific skin care.
AquaCacteen, from Mibelle, is an ultra- refined elixir from organic cactus (Opuntia ficus-indica). AquaCacteen blocks the release of stress markers from sensory nerve cells in the skin and calms irritated skin. Furthermore, it has excellent hydrating properties due to its high content of water-binding compounds. Clinical studies conducted on both women and men showed that AquaCacteen was exceptionally soothing and firming. Also it was found to be very hydrating even when
February 2016 PERSONAL CARE 27
www.morguefile.com
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