Géraldine Lemaire, Virginie Lemaire, Malvina Olivero, Elodie Dugas, Elisabeth Devilard – M&L Laboratories – L’Occitane en Provence Group, France
ANTI-AGEING
Geographic link to efficiency of Helichrysum italicum
ABSTRACT
Helichrysum italicum is a flowering plant of the Asteraceae family. The plant produces essential oil from its blossoms which is used for medicinal purposes including anti- inflammatory, fungicidal and astringent properties. In addition, it soothes burns and raw chapped skin. In order to find other properties for cosmetic uses, mainly to prevent skin ageing, we compared chemical composition and efficacy of Helichrysum italicum essential oils coming from different geographical origins: Corsica and Balkan. By chromatography analysis, we showed that the composition of the Corsican
oil is dominated by neryl acetate, while the Balkan one features α-pinene and α-caryophyllene and the relative abundance of the corresponding constituents is significantly different according to the origin. In addition, using cDNA array, we demonstrated that genes related to skin barrier and cohesion show higher expression in skin samples treated with the Corsican oil than in those treated with the Balkan oil. This study demonstrates that the Corsican essential oil could be more efficient than the Balkan one in promoting skin barrier function and hydration.
The predominant problem with ageing skin is a disturbed barrier function characterised by wrinkle formation in the epidermis, sagging, skin thinning, dryness, a reduced immune response and a slow wound healing.1
A
dysregulation of the fibroblasts metabolic activity is also observed. The primary function of the skin is to act as a protective barrier between the organism and its external environment, minimising water loss from the body while, at the same time, preventing the entry of pathogens and allergens. Epidermal barrier dysfunction can exacerbate sensitive skin conditions, dryness and infections. In this respect, an intact cornified envelope (CE) is of utmost importance. Most of the genes implicated in the
epidermal differentiation process are located on the same region of the same chromosome. These genes conserved a structural relationship through evolution and the encoded proteins are functionally interdependent.2
They form the epidermal
differentiation complex (EDC) that undergoes coordinate regulation during keratinocyte differentiation. The genes of this complex encode precursor proteins of the cornified cell envelope (CE), intermediate filament- associated proteins, and calcium-binding proteins. Loricrin, involucrin and small proline-rich proteins (SPRRs) multigene family are the major precursors of the CE,3 a highly insoluble and rigid structure that is essential for the barrier function of the skin.
The Mediterranean Helichrysum italicum
plant belongs to the Asteraceae family. This plant is widespread in the areas of stony, arid, sandy Mediterranean region along the east coast and on the islands such as Corsica or Sardinia. Helichrysum italicum has been reported to possess anti- inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and its antimicrobial activity (against both Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans) has been ascribed to terpenes and terpenoids. For Helichrysum italicum essential oil in particular, wound healing, hematoma and scars treatment have been pointed out as interesting applications.4 The composition of essential oils is
known to depend both on the collection site and on the developmental stage of plant. For instance, the essential oil chromatographic profiles are different when the plant comes from Corsica or Tuscany. The composition of the Corsican oil is dominated by neryl acetate, neryl propionate, nerol, acyclic ketones and β-diketones, while the Tuscan one features α-pinene and β-caryophillene.5 In order to find new properties for
cosmetic use, mainly to prevent skin ageing, we compared chemical composition and efficacy of two Helichrysum italicum essential oils from two different geographical origins (Corsica and the Balkans). The chemical composition of the two essential oils was analysed by gas
chromatography and studies on human full thickness biopsies from face lifting were performed aiming to elucidate the efficacy of the two Helichrysum italicum essential oils by transcriptomic analysis.
Results and discussion Chemical composition of Balkan and Corsican essential oils Gas chromatography analysis was performed on a Thermo gas chromatograph equipped with a flame ionisation detector using a TR-WaxMs fused silica capillary column (ThermoScientific, 60 m x 0.25 mm i.d.; film thickness 0.25 µm). Chromatographic conditions were as follows: hydrogen as carrier gas at 0.7 mL/min; injector and detector temperatures at 250˚C each. Oven temperature was isothermal at 60˚C for 1 min, then increased to 240˚C, at a rate for 2˚C/min and held isothermal for 23 min. Volume injected 1 µL. Split ratio 200:1. The percentage composition of compounds (relative quantity) in the essential oils was computed from the GC- FID peak areas using the normalisation method, without correction factors. Fifteen compounds were identified in
the two essential oils: Corsican and Balkan obtained by hydrodistillation (Fig. 1). The gas chromatographic analysis
showed variations in the composition of the two oils.
February 2016 PERSONAL CARE 23
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