Melissa Vitale – AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry, US HAIR STYLING
High-performance styling products with sustainability
Consumers and formulators of personal care products continue to prefer more natural and sustainable ingredient options, but will not compromise on price or performance for natural ingredients.1 In hair styling, longevity and volume are the two most important attributes to European consumers. Many hair styling products are designed specifically to help add volume, with some claiming to add 95% more volume or even plump up hair by 39%, thanks to collagen (as an example). Between 35% and 51% of product users in Europe’s Big 5 markets – France, Germany, Italy, Spain and the UK – look to add volume to their hair. In addition, many products carry
claims of lasting all day or 24 hours, while several carry claims they will last two to three days, withstanding various elements such as high humidity. Producers often use adjectives such as ‘ultra-resistant’ or ‘Indestructible’ to imply more durability to products. Nearly half (47%) of launches in Europe are for products claimed to be long- lasting, exceeding the global average of 44%. The ‘sweet spot’, then, for formulators
is to create a hair styling product that provides maximum hold and volumising performance over a long period of time, and also benefits from a friendlier label. While claims of ‘natural’ ingredients are more prominent and generate a higher
Table 1: Gel property comparison. Description PVP K-30 gel
PVP/VA gel
Maltodextrin/VP copolymer LMW gel Maltodextrin/VP copolymer HMW gel PVP K-90 gel
pH
6.29 6.15 6.34 6.08 6.40
100 80 60 40 20 0 0 0.5 1.0 1.5 Time (hours) Figure 1: High humidity gel curl retention (21˚C, 90% RH).
level of interest in the US, it benefits producers worldwide to anticipate global interest rather than react to it.
Extra hold In 2011 AkzoNobel introduced BiostyleTM CGP fixative polymer (INCI name: Maltodextrin/VP copolymer) to respond to consumer preferences for more naturally derived or sustainable hair care products. Designed for use in a variety of styling products, its hold performance is similar to PVP K-30 and PVP/VA systems. Recently, AkzoNobel modified the
polymer to increase its hold performance to match PVP K-90 systems. Biostyle XH
Viscosity (cpa) 42,700
43,000 45,500 44,000 46,140
3.0% active polymer, Carbomer neutralised w/AMP, pH adjusted to 6.0-6.5 0.5% Carbomer used for PVP K-30, PVP/VA, Maltodextrin/VP copolymer (LMW) gels 0.3% Carbomer used for Maltodextrin/VP copolymer (HMW) and PVP K-90 gels LMW = Low molecular weight HMW = High molecular weight
Turbidity (ntu) 9
15 12 16 19
(for ‘extra hold’) polymer allows formulators to develop cost-effective styling aids with excellent gel clarity, product aesthetics and on-hair performance similar to PVP K-90 while also responding to consumer preferences for more naturally derived or sustainable hair care products. The INCI name is: Maltodextrin/VP Copolymer. This maltodextrin/VP copolymer, with high molecular weight, is the focus of this article. The maltodextrin/VP copolymer launched in 2011 will be designated LMW for ‘low molecular weight’. Maltodextrin/VP copolymer provides:
l Excellent volume properties, superior to PVP K-90 polymer.
Table 2: Maltodextrin/VP copolymer vs. PVP K-90 gel.
PVP K-90 gel Gloss
Stiffness Dry Comb Flake
Anti-Stat Feel
Maltodextrin/ VP copolymer
NSD NSD NSD NSD NSD NSD
NSD = No statistical difference detected at the 95% confidence level
February 2016 PERSONAL CARE 37 2.0 2.5 3.0
Basic hair gel: 3% polymer, 0.5% carbomer systems, pH ~6.5
l Maltodextrin/VP copolymer l PVP K-90 l PVP/VA
Curl retention (%)
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