NEWS HatNews #93 | May 2022
Hat and mask created by costume designer Olivier Bériot for the film “Bandidas”, worn by Penélope Cruz, 2006.
Made by milliner Gregoria Recio
Theatrical Millinery Exhibition
at Atelier-Musée du Chapeau
The latest exhibition at the Atelier-Musée du Chapeau (Hat Museum and Workshop) in Chazelles-sur-Lyon, France, is putting the spotlight on theatrical millinery. Titled ‘Les chapeaux font le show! Des coulisses à la scène’ (‘Spectacular hats! A look behind the scene’), the display features around 60 exceptional headpieces from the world of spectacle and performance. The headwear has been sourced from prestigious theatrical institutions and venues, including the National Centre for Stage Costume in Moulins, the Grand Parc du Puy du Fou in Vendée, Disneyland Paris, the Jean Vilar House in Avignon, the Moulin Rouge, and the Paris National Opera. With reference to the exhibition’s theme, the museum said: “As a final touch on a costume, the hat shines on every stage: theatre, opera, cinema, variety shows, parades and theme parks alike. Whether historical, faithful to reality, contemporary, or leaving plenty of room for creation, headgear accompanies the artistic purpose and requires the mastery of high-tech know-how, both traditional and innovative.”
Exhibition: May 22 - Oct. 2, 2022
More information
www.museeduchapeau.com
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info@thehatmagazine.com
Takes a Fresh Look at the Craft of Millinery
New Book
Contemporary Millinery: Hat Design and Construction by Sophie Beale (pictured) is a new introduction to the art of millinery, bringing together modern design and refined techniques with trusted traditional methods. The book explores core millinery materials through a series of techniques based on a single wooden block and sculptural, hand-sewn, flat-patterned hats. With clear and concise guidance from the author, you will discover how to push the boundaries of your equipment through creative thinking and nurture your own design ability with milliner- specific design advice and exercises, as well as tips for making your own sketches. You will also learn ways of working sustainably, such as making use of offcuts. With hundreds of photographs and sketches, the book presents over 20 activities, with instructions for 10 complete hats and headpieces, including straw, sinamay, felt, fabric and leather hats, plus veiling, feathers, flower making
and more. The publication has been compiled with all budgets and a variety of levels in mind, and includes helpful indicators for skill level, a list of common millinery terms, troubleshooting
guide, suppliers list, techniques index and pattern library. The book’s author, Sophie Beale, is an award-winning milliner, designer and instructor based in the UK, and a regular contributor to the design inspiration pages of The Hat Magazine.
Published by Schiffer Craft books
www.schifferbooks.com/products/ contemporary-millinery
CONTEMPORARY MILLINERY
HAT DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION
COUTURE FLAT PATTERNS SCULPTING HEADWEAR WITHOUT A BLOCK
This chapter aims to open up a world of possibility through creating sculptural couture hats with flat patterns; no blocks required.
sophie beale Millinery
Cover.indd 3
The techniques shown here are a mix between those used in traditional blocked hats and those used in “cut and sew” (soft fabric hats constructed with a sewing machine).
Making millinery in this way is not only great for beginners but for the more advanced too, since your designs can be led by your imagination rather than your equipment. You can create dramatic sculptural shapes of any size, altering them as often as you like with no commitment to finding a suitable block. The only thing that can’t be achieved is a curve within the surface of the material (for example, if you wanted a bowler hat crown or an upsweep brim); for this, an element of blocking is required. However, some curving can be created by using the free-form hand-shaping techniques detailed throughout the book.
The methods in this chapter can also be blended with those covered in the blocking section—for example, a flat-patterned shape could be used as a trim on a blocked base, or a blocked crown could be paired with a flat-pattern brim. Flat patterns are also a great way to incorporate small pieces of materials and limit waste.
The Mixed-Media Headpiece in the next chapter uses this method.
18/03/2022 14:50
Flat-pattern tips When using buckram, try to keep it rolled rather than folded to avoid getting creases, which can be hard to completely remove without wetting.
You can copy these patterns to create these projects in their entirety, or experiment with your own. Play around with cutting and taping together card to build shapes and pin them to a mannequin head or block. Taking photos of the shape as it changes is useful, in case you like something you have taken apart.
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