REPORT
Lucy Barlow Hats uk
www.thebritishhatguild.org.uk/lucy-barlow tip
An overlapped straight stitch makes a more rigid hat, while a chain stitch from the old strip straw sewing machines allows for more stretch and a more comfortable hat
Very fine quality vintage straw braid
In addition to the fine narrow straw, the company also makes a variety of other hats. One of their hats has a
beautiful scallop plait done by an expert of the craft in China. When the scallop edge caught the eye of the interviewer, we were told the plait was 30 to 40 years old. The brim of the hat is hand-sewn with the braid interlaced edge to edge, not overlapped. Ishidaseibou has a selection of
masterful old plaits that are kept carefully wrapped, as the quality of plait is now difficult to find and may be inaccessible in the future. Some of these were collected as hat factories closed over the years and they had the opportunity to see “what was in the attic”. In some cases, the materials were planned to just be burned.
Katsushi said that Ishidaseibou is part of a new project, Umi no Kousha (School on the Seaside), which is a collection of craftsman’s ateliers where they share their craft and skills using a local primary school which had closed down. Katsushi explained that Ishidaseibou were utilising the space for retail display and workshops such as trimming and straw plaiting with the help from local elders.
British hat designer Lucy Barlow apprenticed with Phillip Somerville in London and assisted Jean Barthet in Paris. In the 1980s she created a range of quirky but understated straw braid classics. Her collections were sold internationally to department stores such as Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Barneys New York.
In 1990 Lucy signed a licensing
contract with the largest hat distributor in Japan and linked with an Italian specialist straw braid factory to meet the demand. That experience gave her a unique opportunity to understand the straw braid industry. Wheat straw is not durable; it
is organic and natural and can give a look of weathered beauty. According to Lucy, wheat straw has a lot of personality and life in it, but is harder to machine, while raffia
“I think the future of stitch braid is exciting, as it has a huge potential for regeneration because of its versatility and sustainability”
can be plaited by hand and also comes in a
machine braid. The machine- braided raffia has uniformity and is more soft, flexible and easier to sew. Lucy often mixes different fibre
Lucy Barlow
braids together, including hemp and raffia. Over the years, she has developed many signature looks, including dip-dyed strip straw. Lucy largely gets her hanks in bulk and dyes them in her workshop, but recommends that beginners might find a useful source in Baxter Hart & Abraham Ltd in Luton, which supplies a good range of colours. She is inspired by so much
random stuff, but music is usually her starting point and creates a mood or a feeling visually. She is currently working in collaboration on specific projects whose research always brings layers of richness and diversity to the work. Lucy describes herself as loving fusions. “Relationship inspires me,”
relays Lucy. So, for example, the relationship hair has to the head and the hat. “The hat takes on a
Dip-dye effect hats made from raffia and hemp
may 2022 | 59
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84
