TECHNIQUES 01
When choosing a straw Make sure that the weave is even all around the hood. The tighter and smaller the weave, the better the quality of the hood. This could make blocking the straw much harder, though. Make sure that the edge is good and doesn’t have
any unravelled straw. Look at the inside of the straw at the number of knots and loose straw fibres to determine how well a straw has been made and the grade of the straw. Straws with more knots and loose straw fibres are of a lower quality.
02
Measuring the block Measure the block along the longest length you will get on the block (on this block it is from the point to the opposite side.)
04 03
Cutting the sinamay and abaca lining Using this measurement, cut a square in sinamay and a square in silk abaca for the lining. Tack the two layers together around the outside of the fabric.
06 05
Blocking the first two layers Place the fabric over the block with the bias at the centre front and back. Make sure
that both layers are facing the same way. You can match your grain lines by adjusting the fabrics as you pin.
Pinning on the block Pin the bias of the fabrics on centre front, centre back and over the point and curve of the block. This will enable your sinamay to be stretched over the parts of the block where it will not distort the shape. Continue pinning in between these areas by dividing up the sinamay till you have about 40 pins in the block. Steam as you go along to keep the fabrics’ manipulation.
Preparing to block Cover the block with cling film and foil to protect it. Rub the sinamay and abaca layers with a damp cloth till it’s damp to touch.
07
Folding the point Pull and fold the pointed end to make an inverted pleat. Put a tacking stitch in this point to help the reduction of the fullness. It is impossible to get rid of all the fullness – see the finished look here (inset) --> Trim off excess so you have a hem of approximately 2.5 cm under and around the block to the pointed end. Leave extra fabric on the point of the block; the straw will cover this later and you will fold the straw in the same way as in Step 10 & 11. Leave for about one hour to dry. The sinamay and abaca fabrics should be slightly damp when you block your straw.
08
Fold the straw in a concertina way. Dip into warm water and wring out. Some dyes bleed out from the hood, so take care to make sure this does not go on anything else.
may 2022 | 63
T
h
i
i s
s
t
h
e
fi
n
s
i
h
e
d
l
o
o
k
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84
