article, this quote seemed to capture the various sentiments. Beyond the art and craft of handmade natural fibre hats made of straw, raffia and toquilla fibres are not only naturally eco-friendly; they can also be functional by offering proper protection from the sun. (On the subject of weatherproofing hats, see pages 40-47 in Issue 87 of The Hat Magazine). And beyond the function of the hand-plaited straw and the hand-woven toquilla fibres for the Panama hat, many of these hats are a craftsperson’s ‘work of art’ in their own right.
Terminology A note regarding terminology, which can be confusing between a plait and a braid: some specialists describe a strip straw plait as one that is handmade, and a strip straw braid as one that is machine-made. However, this is not a universal interpretation of the words. Kathy Gerish of the hat supplier Jay Gerish Company in the US describes the difference in terms of an artisanal distinction, not a matter of manufacturing terminology. If hand-plaiting is important, check with your supplier about their braid. For this article, we will use the term plait if known to be handmade, unless the source specifically used the term braid.
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Gabriel Finkelsztein
K. Dorfzaun ecuador
www.kdorfzaun.com
Founded in 1939, K. Dorfzaun has its roots in the Dorfzaun family fleeing from Nazi Germany in the late 1930s. Four brothers overcame hardship to create an international hat business, starting in Ecuador and exporting to the USA where younger brother Karl had immigrated. Over the decades the company has introduced new manufacturing processes and machinery to adapt to environmental and market demands. Nevertheless, the process to produce the perfect Panama hat still begins in the field with the cultivation of the straw of the toquilla plant, which grows on the Ecuadorian coastal region. Artisans choose the longest stems to cut and obtain the tenderest straw possible. The long strands are boiled and then dried under the intense equatorial sun and left to rest in the cool night breeze, thereby acquiring their characteristic colour. It was delightful to see the pride and
excitement as Gabriel Finkelsztein, fourth generation of the Dorfzaun family and current CEO of K. Dorfzaun, described to us the different weave
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patterns in hats made by the weavers. Behind him on our screen was a wall of hats which at first appeared all similar but upon closer inspection were each unique in their weave, crown shape, detail, brim size and style. K. Dorfzaun weavers continue
to innovate with different designs, and the company uses a variety of materials in addition to the traditional toquilla palm used for the original Panama hat. The company also works with highly prized weavers of the Montecristi Panama hat made from the finest toquilla straw. Artisans will work for months on a single piece that, when sold, can cost in the tens of thousands of dollars. During the Covid lockdowns, with
great care and with government permission, Gabriel travelled to the remote weavers to guarantee the workers could be paid for their weaving despite the dramatic drop in hat orders. This allowed the weavers to continue caring for their families.
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Finished and dyed
Panama straw hats on top of a pile
unfinished hats
Bundles of toquilla straw
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