ANTI-AGEING 63


UV-irradiation elevates the expression of elastin fourfold, then elastolysis occurs, characterised by elastic fibre cleavage by proteases mentioned above, resulting in severe deposition of truncated elastic fibres. Recent research has found that photoageing


makes the N-terminal and central parts of the tropoelastin molecules more susceptible to enzymatic cleavage and, hence, accelerates the age-related degradation of elastin.8 Fibroblasts are dermal-resident cells and are


differentiated from mesenchymal cells. They are responsible for the synthesis and degradation of fibrous and amorphous ECM proteins. Fibroblasts constitute a heterogeneous cell


type implicated in the structural maintenance and immune surveillance of the dermis.5


They are the


main cell type of connective tissue and paramount players for skin structure, as they synthesize scaffolding and moisture-retaining molecules, such as collagen, elastin, and other extracellular matrix proteins. These cells play also a particularly important


role in wound healing, skin regeneration and angiogenesis. Their function and interaction with the environment are important to understand the molecular mechanism of dermal ageing, which is characterized by a loss of proliferative potential and a loss of ECM-synthesizing capacity in these cells’ concomitant with a phenotype of matrix resorption. For these reasons, fibroblasts are especially


important in the development of new therapeutic formulations for skin alterations. Diseases of the connective tissue, pulmonary fibrosis, or even tumours, can be better understood after research with fibroblasts. Using Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts (NHDF) in efficacy testing provides a biologically relevant model that closely mimics human skin physiology, allowing researchers to assess the effects of cosmetic ingredients on


TABLE 1: PERCENTAGE OF INHIBITION FOR EACH ANTI-AGE ENZYME Activity measured Anti-Tyrosinase


% Inhibition 6.1%


Anti-Elastase


Anti-Collagenase Anti-Lipoxygenase


72.7% 8%


83.9%


cellular processes, such as ECM protein synthesis, wound healing, and anti-ageing properties, among others. This approach enhances the accuracy and relevance of in vitro testing, offering insights into how products may perform on real human skin, while also aligning with ethical and regulatory


Interpretation Weak depigmenting activity


Excellent activity, strong firming effect Low activity, limited impact on firmness Very strong anti-inflammatory activity


requirements that favour human-relevant, non- animal testing methods Their function and interaction with the


environment are important to understand the molecular mechanism of dermal ageing, which is characterized by a loss of proliferative potential


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January 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE


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